Collagen Extract

What it is

Collagen extract is a protein sourced from animal tissue, most often fish skin and scales in modern cosmetics, sometimes bovine or porcine hide. In a product it forms a moisture-holding film on the skin surface. Formulators use it for the immediate plumped, smooth feel it gives, particularly in sheet masks.

What it does well

• Holds water at the surface and gives a temporarily smoother look

  As a large, water-binding protein it forms a hydrating film, which reliably improves the immediate appearance and feel of skin. The effect washes off.

  Moderate evidence

Worth knowing

• Applied collagen cannot rebuild your skin's own collagen

  Collagen molecules are far too large to pass through the outer skin layer into the dermis, and even if they could, loose protein is not incorporated into the collagen network. Products implying otherwise are overstating what the ingredient does.

  Matters most toAnyone buying a collagen product specifically to reverse collagen loss.

• Animal-derived, so not vegan

  Cosmetic collagen comes from fish, cattle or pigs. Marine sources are the most common today, which is also relevant for people avoiding fish products.

  Matters most toVegans, vegetarians, people with fish allergy, and those avoiding specific animal products for religious reasons.

Where the EU stands