Skip to content
be sonatural, Face masks, read from the back

The encyclopaedia

Every ingredient, explained

Search any name off the back of a pack: what it does in the formula, whether there is anything worth being careful about, and what the evidence says. Plenty of ingredients people avoid turn out to be fine.

None of the 219 masks contains an ingredient we grade “avoid”. That grade means banned from EU cosmetics, which nothing legally on sale here can contain. 8 of them are documented anyway, because knowing what should not be on a label is half of reading one.

143 masks do contain something graded “worth knowing”. EU-restricted, a common contact allergen, or subject to live debate.

Looking for what to avoid? The EU watchlist covers 72 substances that are banned, capped or must be named on the label in cosmetics sold in Europe.

Or read a whole class at once

Each of these gathers every entry that does the same job in a formula, with its grade, its status under the EU Cosmetics Regulation and where it usually sits on a label.

343 entries

Includes 21 entries no mask in this catalogue contains: 16 banned or restricted in the EU, and 5 actives that turn up in skincare but not in these masks.

A

  • Acacia Senegal GumGum arabicGum arabic, the dried sap of the acacia tree; it forms a thin film that gives a temporary tightening, smoothing feel.6 masks
  • Acetyl Hexapeptide-8ArgirelineA six-amino-acid peptide marketed as a topical alternative to botulinum toxin; the supporting evidence is small and mostly industry-run.3 masks
  • Acrylates CopolymerA group name for synthetic acrylate polymers used to give a formula body and structure.9 masks
  • Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerA carbomer-type gelling polymer modified with fatty side chains so it can also hold oil and water together.17 masks
  • AdenosineA naturally occurring cell-signalling molecule used at low levels to soften the look of fine lines.28 masks
  • AlcoholEthanolUndenatured ethanol, the same alcohol as in drinks; in cosmetics it acts as a solvent, a drying agent and a mild preservative booster.31 masks
  • Alcohol Denat.Denatured alcoholOrdinary drinking alcohol made undrinkable by additives; used to dissolve ingredients, speed drying and give a light, non-greasy feel.16 masks
  • AlginAlginateSodium alginate from brown seaweed; it thickens and sets into a rubbery gel, which is what makes modelling and peel-off masks work.8 masks
  • AllantoinA simple, very well-tolerated soothing agent used to make products feel gentler on irritated skin.84 masks
  • Aloe Barbadensis Leaf JuiceAloe veraThe gel from the inside of an aloe leaf, used as a skin-conditioning agent and one of the most common botanicals in face masks.35 masks
  • Alpha-ArbutinA more potent synthetic form of arbutin, capped by the EU at 2% in face creams and 0.5% in body lotions.max 2% (face cream), 0.5%…1 mask
  • Alpha-Isomethyl IononeA synthetic violet-scented ketone; one of the original 26 fragrance allergens the EU requires to be named on the pack.allergen6 masks
  • Aluminum GlycinateAn aluminium salt of glycine used in small amounts to buffer pH and give a mild astringent effect.max 0.89%1 mask
  • Aluminum HydroxideAn insoluble white aluminium compound used to opacify formulas and, most often, to coat mineral pigments.max 0.89%1 mask
  • Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP CopolymerA synthetic copolymer of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate and vinylpyrrolidone, used to thicken the water phase and reviewed as safe as used.5 masks
  • Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl TaurateA synthetic polymer built from a single sulfonated monomer, used to thicken the water phase and hold emulsions together, and reviewed as safe as used.7 masks
  • Angelica Keiskei Leaf/Stem ExtractAshitabaA Japanese leafy plant extract used for antioxidant support; very little human skin data.1 mask
  • AnhydroxylitolA dehydrated form of xylitol used as a humectant, almost always alongside xylitol and xylitylglucoside.11 masks
  • Anthemis Nobilis Flower OilRoman chamomile oilA sweet apple-scented chamomile oil used in calming-positioned masks; a relatively gentle essential oil.1 mask
  • ArbutinBeta-arbutinA plant-derived skin-lightening agent, restricted in the EU to 7% in face creams because it can release hydroquinone.max 7% (face cream)3 masks
  • Argania Spinosa Kernel OilArgan oilA Moroccan kernel oil with a fairly even split of oleic and linoleic acid and a high vitamin E content.4 masks
  • ArginineA basic amino acid used as a gentle, skin-friendly way to raise pH and neutralise gel thickeners.36 masks
  • Artemisia Vulgaris ExtractMugwortA K-beauty herb extract for calming irritated skin; notable because mugwort is a common pollen allergen.4 masks
  • Ascorbic AcidVitamin CPure vitamin C: a potent but unstable antioxidant that brightens tone and supports collagen production.10 masks
  • Ascorbyl PalmitateThe ester of vitamin C and palmitic acid: an oil-soluble derivative that enters skin readily and may not convert to vitamin C once it is there.9 masks

B

  • BakuchiolBakuchiolA plant-derived compound marketed as a retinol alternative; one good head-to-head trial supports it, but it is not a retinoid.3 masks
  • Behenyl AlcoholA long-chain fatty alcohol, usually from rapeseed, that gives creams a firm, velvety body without a greasy feel.6 masks
  • BentoniteBentonite clayA swelling volcanic clay, mostly montmorillonite, used to absorb oil and to thicken and stabilise mask formulas.16 masks
  • Benzoic AcidA naturally occurring acid used as a preservative; the active form behind sodium benzoate.max 0.5%4 masks
  • Benzyl AlcoholA naturally occurring aromatic alcohol used as a preservative and solvent; must be declared as a fragrance allergen.allergen19 masks
  • Benzyl BenzoateA faintly balsamic solvent and fragrance fixative that is also one of the EU's declared fragrance allergens.allergen3 masks
  • Benzyl GlycolA benzyl-based solvent used to help other preservatives work; not itself an EU-listed preservative.1 mask
  • Benzyl SalicylateA soft floral fragrance material on the EU declared-allergen list, and since 2026 capped at 0.5% in the leave-on and rinse-off skin products that face masks fall under.allergen6 masks
  • Beta-GlucanBeta-glucanA soothing sugar polymer from oats, yeast or mushrooms that binds water and helps calm the look of redness and irritation.18 masks
  • BetaineTrimethylglycineA sugar-beet derived humectant that helps skin cells manage their own water balance; gentle and non-sticky.49 masks
  • BHAButylated hydroxyanisoleA synthetic antioxidant that keeps the oils in a formula from going rancid - and, on an ingredient list, not the exfoliating acid that skincare marketing also calls BHA.1 mask
  • BHTButylated hydroxytolueneA synthetic antioxidant that stops a formula spoiling in air; the EU caps it at 0.8% in skincare.max 0.8%1 mask
  • Bifida Ferment LysateA postbiotic lysate of Bifidobacterium cultures, best known from premium repair serums.5 masks
  • BisabololBisabololThe soothing sesquiterpene alcohol that gives chamomile much of its reputation, used pure at up to about 1%.8 masks
  • Butylene GlycolBGA lightweight humectant and solvent used as a less irritating alternative to propylene glycol.108 masks
  • ButylparabenParabenThe longest-chain permitted paraben, restricted to 0.14% in the EU and under active review for children's products.max 0.14%not used
  • Butylphenyl MethylpropionalLilialA lily-of-the-valley fragrance material banned in EU cosmetics since March 2022 after being classified as toxic for reproduction.EU bannednot used
  • Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) ButterShea butterA soft, solid plant fat from the West African shea tree, used to make rich creams and masks that hold moisture in.35 masks

C

  • C15-19 AlkaneA branched hydrocarbon emollient, usually made from sugarcane, used as a plant-based stand-in for silicones.2 masks
  • CaffeineA plant stimulant used topically to temporarily tighten skin and reduce the look of puffiness, especially under the eyes.7 masks
  • Calendula Officinalis Flower ExtractCalendulaA classic marigold extract used to calm dry, irritated skin; also a daisy-family allergen.3 masks
  • Camellia Japonica Seed OilCamellia oilA high-oleic Japanese and Korean traditional oil with a notably light, silky slip.1 mask
  • Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf ExtractGreen teaAntioxidant tea-leaf extract with real evidence for calming UV-driven skin stress, but weaker evidence for visible anti-ageing.26 masks
  • Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideFractionated coconut oilA purified, very light oil made from coconut or palm fatty acids and glycerin, used to thin and carry other oils.31 masks
  • Caprylyl GlycolAn eight-carbon diol that moisturises and quietly suppresses microbial growth in the formula.53 masks
  • CaramelCaramel colourA brown colouring made by heating sugars, used to give masks and cleansers a natural-looking tint.3 masks
  • CarbomerCarbomerA synthetic gelling polymer that turns water into a clear gel once it has been neutralised with an alkali.41 masks
  • CarrageenanCarrageenanA gelling sugar from red seaweed used to thicken masks and give gels a slippery, cushioned feel.11 masks
  • Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed OilSafflower oilA light seed oil that comes in two very different varieties, one of the richest plant sources of linoleic acid.2 masks
  • Cedrus Atlantica Bark OilAtlas cedarwood oilA soft, dry cedarwood oil used as a base note; a low-frequency but documented contact allergen.1 mask
  • CelluloseCellulosePlant fibre used to thicken formulas, hold them in place, or - as bio-cellulose - form the sheet a mask is made from.6 masks
  • Cellulose GumCarboxymethylcellulosePlant cellulose modified so it dissolves in water; it gives mask gels body and stops them running.15 masks
  • Centella Asiatica ExtractCica (gotu kola)A well-studied herb extract used to calm redness and support the skin barrier; the K-beauty "cica" ingredient.28 masks
  • Ceramide APCeramide 6 IIA barrier lipid built from phytosphingosine and an alpha-hydroxy fatty acid, and physically distinct from the sphingosine ceramides.6 masks
  • Ceramide ASA barrier lipid pairing an alpha-hydroxy fatty acid with sphingosine, formerly sold under two separate names.4 masks
  • Ceramide EOPCeramide 1A double-tailed barrier lipid from the class that rivets the lamellar sheets of the skin barrier together.5 masks
  • Ceramide NGA barrier lipid pairing a plain fatty acid with sphinganine, the saturated cousin of sphingosine.2 masks
  • Ceramide NPCeramide 3A skin-identical lipid that helps rebuild the mortar holding the outer skin cells together.25 masks
  • Ceramide NSA barrier lipid pairing a plain fatty acid with sphingosine, one of the ceramides the skin makes itself.5 masks
  • Ceratonia Siliqua (Carob) GumLocust bean gumLocust bean gum from carob seeds; a plant thickener that gives masks and gels body without a sticky finish.17 masks
  • Cetearyl AlcoholFatty alcohol blendA waxy blend of cetyl and stearyl alcohol that thickens creams and softens skin. It is not a drying alcohol.51 masks
  • Cetearyl OlivateOlive-derived emulsifierAn olive-oil-derived emulsifier, almost always paired with sorbitan olivate, that gives creams a skin-like feel.7 masks
  • Cetyl AlcoholFatty alcoholA waxy fatty alcohol from coconut or palm oil that thickens creams and softens skin. Not a drying alcohol.16 masks
  • Cetyl EthylhexanoateA branched ester of cetyl alcohol and 2-ethylhexanoic acid, used as an emollient and reviewed as safe when formulated to be non-irritating.5 masks
  • Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower ExtractGerman chamomileA traditional soothing flower extract; gentle for most people but a genuine allergen for those sensitive to daisy-family plants.13 masks
  • Charcoal PowderActivated charcoalCarbonised plant material with a huge internal surface area, used mainly for oil absorption and for its black colour.12 masks
  • ChlorphenesinA chlorinated preservative allowed up to 0.3% in the EU; effective but a recognised cause of facial dermatitis.max 0.3%13 masks
  • CholesterolCholesterolOne of the three lipids the skin barrier is built from, and the one that becomes scarce with age.6 masks
  • Chondrus CrispusIrish mossThe red seaweed carrageenan is extracted from, used whole or powdered to gel jelly and hydrogel masks.20 masks
  • CI 42090Blue 1A synthetic bright blue dye used to colour masks and gels; permitted in EU cosmetics and also approved as a food colour.max 0.5% as a hair dye su…6 masks
  • Cinnamomum Cassia Bark ExtractCassia cinnamonA cinnamon bark extract with antioxidant activity; can be irritating and is related to a known fragrance allergen.2 masks
  • CitralThe lemon-scented aldehyde in lemongrass and citrus oils; a declared EU allergen and a moderately potent sensitiser.allergen14 masks
  • Citric AcidCitric acidA mild fruit acid used in tiny amounts to bring a product to the right pH; at higher levels it is a gentle exfoliant.79 masks
  • CitronellolA rose-scented terpene alcohol from geranium and rose oils, and one of the EU's declared fragrance allergens.allergen22 masks
  • Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit OilBergamot oilThe Earl Grey citrus oil; cold-pressed grades contain furocoumarins that can cause severe sunlight-triggered burns.allergen5 masks
  • Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel OilSweet orange oilCold-pressed sweet orange peel oil, over 90% limonene; on the EU allergen list but not meaningfully phototoxic.allergen3 masks
  • Citrus Aurantium Peel OilThe collective name the EU requires for bitter and sweet orange peel oil alike, so the label does not say which species is in the jar.allergen7 masks
  • Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel OilLemon peel oilCold-pressed lemon peel oil: mostly limonene, but it also carries phototoxic furocoumarins.allergen7 masks
  • Coco-Caprylate/CaprateA mixture of esters of coconut fatty alcohols with caprylic and capric acids, used as an emollient and reviewed as safe when formulated to be non-irritating.7 masks
  • Coconut AlcoholA naturally derived blend of fatty alcohols from coconut oil, used to thicken and soften. Not a drying alcohol.1 mask
  • Collagen ExtractCollagenAn animal-derived protein that hydrates and smooths the skin surface - it does not replace the collagen in your skin.13 masks
  • Commiphora Myrrha OilMyrrh oilA warm resinous oil from myrrh gum, used as a fragrance base note; little modern clinical data on skin use.1 mask
  • Copper Tripeptide-1Copper peptideA copper-carrying peptide with a strong wound-healing research history but limited controlled evidence in ordinary cosmetics.3 masks
  • Coptis Japonica Root ExtractJapanese goldthreadA traditional East Asian root extract rich in berberine, used for its calming and antioxidant properties.16 masks
  • CoumarinThe sweet hay or new-mown-grass note found in tonka bean and lavender; a declared EU fragrance allergen.allergen2 masks
  • Cupressus Sempervirens OilCypress oilA dry, resinous conifer oil used for its clean woody scent; rich in pinene and delta-3-carene.2 masks
  • CyclopentasiloxaneD5A volatile ring-shaped silicone that gives instant silky slip then evaporates. Now capped at 0.1% in EU cosmetics.max 0.1%1 mask
  • Cymbopogon Martini (Palmarosa) OilPalmarosa oilA grass-derived oil that is mostly geraniol, giving a sweet rosy scent and a correspondingly high allergen load.1 mask

D

  • Decyl GlucosideA gentle sugar-based cleansing agent from glucose and coconut alcohol, used in mild and natural cleansers.3 masks
  • Decyl OleateA light yellow liquid ester of oleic acid and decyl alcohol, used as an emollient and reviewed as safe when formulated to be non-irritating.6 masks
  • Dehydroacetic AcidA mild organic-acid preservative capped at 0.6% in the EU and not allowed in sprays.max 0.6%8 masks
  • DextrinStarch broken down part of the way, used to thicken water-based masks and bind powders.12 masks
  • Diazolidinyl UreaA formaldehyde-releasing preservative permitted in the EU up to 0.5%, with the 'releases formaldehyde' warning rule.max 0.5%not used
  • Dicaprylyl CarbonateAn emollient ester of carbonic acid and caprylyl alcohol, reviewed as safe when formulated to be non-irritating.7 masks
  • DimethiconeSilicone oilA clear, inert silicone fluid that gives creams and masks their smooth slip and leaves a soft, breathable film on skin.12 masks
  • Dipropylene GlycolDPGA mild humectant and solvent, milder than propylene glycol and often used to carry fragrance or plant extracts.48 masks
  • Disodium EDTAEDTAA metal-binding salt used at very low levels to keep a formula stable and stop it spoiling or discolouring.69 masks
  • Disodium PhosphateA phosphate buffer salt that holds a formula at a steady pH, almost always printed alongside its acidic partner.9 masks
  • DMDM HydantoinA formaldehyde-releasing preservative still legal in the EU up to 0.6%, with a mandatory warning above 10 ppm free formaldehyde.max 0.6%not used

E

F

  • Ferulic AcidA plant antioxidant used mainly to stabilise vitamin C and vitamin E formulas and boost their effect.1 mask
  • FormaldehydeBanned as a cosmetic ingredient in the EU since 2019; classified as a human carcinogen by inhalation.EU bannednot used
  • FructooligosaccharidesFOSShort chains of fruit sugars used as a humectant and as a prebiotic intended to support the skin's own microbes.4 masks

G

  • Galactomyces Ferment FiltrateA yeast fermentation filtrate popular in Japanese essences; pleasant and hydrating, but its evidence is mostly industry-run.4 masks
  • Gellan GumA fermented bacterial gum that sets a soft, sliceable gel at a fraction of a per cent.11 masks
  • GeraniolA rose-scented terpene alcohol from geranium, rose and palmarosa oils; a declared EU allergen that becomes more potent when oxidised.allergen21 masks
  • GlucomannanThe gelling polysaccharide from konjac tubers, used to thicken - and in this catalogue, found only in jelly masks.9 masks
  • GluconolactonePHAA polyhydroxy acid that exfoliates mildly while holding water in the skin; the gentlest acid in this group.2 masks
  • GlucoseThe simplest dietary sugar, used in cosmetics as a humectant and skin-conditioning agent.13 masks
  • GlutathioneThe body's main internal antioxidant, marketed for skin lightening but with weak evidence when applied topically.5 masks
  • Glycereth-26A water-soluble glycerin derivative that hydrates with a lighter, less sticky feel than glycerin itself.16 masks
  • GlycerinGlycerolThe most widely used moisturising ingredient in skincare; it draws water into the outer skin layer and helps it stay there.203 masks
  • Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid CopolymerA glycerin-based hydrogel polymer that thickens water and gives a long-lasting slippery, hydrated feel.13 masks
  • Glyceryl CaprylateA coconut-derived monoglyceride that emulsifies, softens skin and suppresses microbial growth.14 masks
  • Glyceryl PolyacrylateA glycerin-modified acrylic polymer that thickens and holds water, giving a slippery, cushioned gel feel.2 masks
  • Glyceryl StearateA workhorse emulsifier made from glycerin and stearic acid that keeps water and oil blended in creams.42 masks
  • Glyceryl Stearate CitrateA PEG-free emulsifier made from glycerin, stearic acid and citric acid, common in natural-certified formulas.21 masks
  • Glycine Soja (Soybean) OilSoybean oilA cheap, high-linoleic pressed oil in the same family as sunflower oil - and often the unnamed part of a blend labelled Vegetable Oil.14 masks
  • Glycolic AcidAHAThe smallest alpha hydroxy acid. No EU legal limit, but EU advice is 4% at pH 3.8 or above for everyday use.5 masks
  • Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root ExtractLicoriceLicorice root and its purified salts are used to calm irritated skin and gently soften dark marks.55 masks

H

I

  • IlliteGreen clayA non-swelling mica-like clay, the basis of French green clay, used for oil absorption in masks.2 masks
  • Imidazolidinyl UreaA formaldehyde-releasing preservative permitted in the EU up to 0.6%, with the 'releases formaldehyde' warning rule.max 0.6%not used
  • InositolVitamin B8A sugar-like compound found naturally in the body, used in skincare as a gentle humectant and conditioner.2 masks
  • Iron OxidesIron oxidesThe red, yellow and black mineral pigments behind most earth-toned cosmetics; among the least allergenic colourants available.19 masks
  • IsobutylparabenA branched paraben banned from EU cosmetics since 2014 for lack of safety data.EU bannednot used
  • IsopentyldiolA small branched diol used as a solvent, reviewed alongside propanediol and methylpropanediol and found safe as used.7 masks
  • Isopropyl AlcoholIsopropanolA fast-evaporating alcohol used mainly as a solvent or cleanser; harsher and more odorous than ethanol and uncommon in face masks.1 mask
  • IsopropylparabenA branched paraben banned from EU cosmetics since 2014 for lack of safety data.EU bannednot used
  • Isostearic AcidA branched fatty acid that stays liquid and resists rancidity, giving a light, non-greasy emollient feel.2 masks

K

  • KaolinWhite clayA soft white clay used in masks to soak up surface oil; the mildest of the common cosmetic clays.30 masks
  • Kojic AcidA fungal fermentation by-product used to lighten dark spots, capped by the EU at 1% in face and hand products.max 1% (face and hand pro…2 masks

L

  • Lactic AcidA gentler alpha hydroxy acid that exfoliates and also holds water in the skin; no EU legal limit.20 masks
  • Lactobacillus FermentA postbiotic ingredient made by fermenting with lactic-acid bacteria, used for hydration and barrier support.6 masks
  • Lactobacillus Ferment LysateBroken-down Lactobacillus cultures used as a postbiotic skin-conditioning ingredient.9 masks
  • Laminaria Japonica ExtractKombu kelpA Japanese kelp extract rich in water-binding polysaccharides, used for hydration and a soothing feel.3 masks
  • Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) OilLavender oilA widely used calming-scented oil that oxidises unusually fast, forming potent allergens; now a declared EU fragrance allergen.allergen7 masks
  • LecithinLecithinA natural phospholipid mix from soy or sunflower, used to bind oil and water and to soften skin.11 masks
  • Leptospermum Petersonii OilLemon-scented tea tree oilAn Australian oil that is about half citral, giving a strong lemon scent and a correspondingly high sensitising load.1 mask
  • Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment FiltrateRadish root fermented by Leuconostoc: declared a conditioning agent, and the reason a mask can be protected from spoiling and still say it holds no preservatives.12 masks
  • Levulinic AcidA small sugar-derived acid with real antimicrobial effect, declared as a skin-conditioning agent - which is how a mask stays preserved without a listed preservative.14 masks
  • LimoneneCitrus terpeneThe main terpene in citrus peel oils; harmless when fresh, but it turns into a significant contact allergen as it oxidises.allergen39 masks
  • LinaloolA floral-smelling terpene alcohol found in lavender and many other oils; like limonene, it becomes far more allergenic once oxidised.allergen46 masks
  • Linalyl AcetateThe second main component of lavender and clary sage oils; newly added to the EU declared-allergen list in 2023.allergen11 masks
  • LoessYellow loess soilA fine wind-blown mineral sediment, known as hwangto in Korea, used in masks as a mild absorbent.11 masks

M

  • Macadamia Ternifolia Seed OilMacadamia oilA silky nut oil notable for its palmitoleic acid, a fatty acid also found in human sebum.7 masks
  • Magnesium Aluminum SilicateA purified mineral clay used to thicken and to stop powders and pigments settling in a mask.max 0.89%12 masks
  • Malachite ExtractMalachiteA copper-bearing mineral extract used in small amounts as a trace-element skin conditioner.4 masks
  • Malic AcidApple acidAn alpha hydroxy acid from apples, usually present to adjust pH rather than to do the exfoliating.not used
  • MaltodextrinA short sugar chain made from starch; it binds powders, stabilises formulas and often carries an extract into the mix.17 masks
  • Mandelic AcidA large-molecule alpha hydroxy acid from bitter almonds; it penetrates slowly, so it tends to be gentler.not used
  • Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf OilTea tree oilAn Australian essential oil with real antibacterial activity against acne bacteria, but also a well-documented contact allergen once it oxidises.8 masks
  • Mentha Arvensis Leaf OilCornmint oilCornmint oil, the world's main commercial source of menthol; stronger and sharper than peppermint oil.1 mask
  • Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf ExtractPeppermint extractA water or glycol extract of peppermint leaf; milder than the essential oil and not itself a declared EU allergen.3 masks
  • MentholMentholThe cooling compound from mint; it feels soothing but does not lower skin temperature, and it joined the EU allergen list in 2023.allergen4 masks
  • MercuryMercury and mercury compoundsA toxic heavy metal banned from EU cosmetics; it still turns up illegally in imported skin-lightening creams.EU bannednot used
  • Methyl Gluceth-20A glucose-derived humectant that holds water in the skin surface with a lighter feel than glycerin.2 masks
  • Methyl TrimethiconeA light, fast-evaporating branched silicone used to give a dry, silky finish without residue.3 masks
  • MethylchloroisothiazolinoneMCIThe chlorinated isothiazolinone in the classic Kathon blend; EU-legal only in rinse-off products, at 0.0015%.max 0.0015%not used
  • MethylisothiazolinoneMIA potent preservative that caused Europe's biggest contact-allergy epidemic; now banned from all leave-on cosmetics.max 0.0015% in rinse-off…not used
  • MethylparabenParabenThe shortest-chain paraben; a very well-studied preservative allowed up to 0.4% in EU cosmetics.max 0.4% single ester6 masks
  • MethylpropanediolA light humectant and solvent that gives a fast-absorbing, non-sticky finish.23 masks
  • MicaMicaA platy silicate mineral that adds shimmer, softness and light-scattering; the reason some masks look luminous.5 masks
  • MontmorilloniteThe main swelling clay mineral inside bentonite, sometimes listed on its own as a purified grade.3 masks
  • Moroccan Lava ClayRhassoul clayA smectite clay mined in Morocco, traditionally used in hammams to cleanse skin and hair without soap.1 mask
  • Myristyl MyristateA waxy plant-derived ester that gives creams a rich, velvety slip; one of the few esters flagged in pore-clogging tests.4 masks

N

  • NiacinamideVitamin B3A form of vitamin B3 used to even out skin tone, support the skin barrier and moderate oil production.46 masks

O

P

  • Palmitic AcidA saturated fatty acid found in palm oil and in skin's own lipids, used to soften and stabilise formulas.13 masks
  • Palmitoyl Grape Seed ExtractGrape seed polyphenols chemically modified with a fatty acid so they dissolve in the oil phase of a product.1 mask
  • Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1Pal-GHKA fat-modified signalling peptide intended to prompt collagen production; usually sold blended with other peptides.2 masks
  • PanthenolProvitamin B5A vitamin B5 precursor that hydrates and calms; one of the better-evidenced soothing ingredients in everyday skincare.76 masks
  • PantolactoneA small lactone related to panthenol, used to condition skin and support the preservative system.14 masks
  • PapainPapaya enzymeA protein-digesting enzyme from papaya used as a mild, acid-free exfoliant; a documented allergen for handlers.2 masks
  • ParfumFragranceA collective label for a scent mixture that can contain dozens of undisclosed ingredients, though named allergens must be listed separately.120 masks
  • PCA DimethiconeA silicone modified with PCA, a natural moisturising factor, giving slip plus a little water-binding.1 mask
  • PEG-100 StearateA water-loving co-emulsifier almost always paired with glyceryl stearate to make light, stable creams.7 masks
  • PEG-150 DistearateA PEG-based wax used mainly to thicken water-based cleansers and give them a richer, more cushioned feel.1 mask
  • PEG-20A medium-length polyethylene glycol used as a water-binding, texture-adjusting ingredient.1 mask
  • PEG-32A waxy, water-soluble polyethylene glycol used as a humectant and texture modifier in creams and masks.2 masks
  • PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OilA castor-oil-derived solubiliser that lets small amounts of oil, fragrance or vitamin sit clearly in a watery essence.5 masks
  • PEG-6A short polyethylene glycol used as a water-binding solvent that helps other ingredients dissolve evenly.2 masks
  • PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor OilA castor-oil-derived solubiliser, more water-loving than PEG-40 version, used in clear toners and essences.11 masks
  • Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) OilGeranium oilA rosy herbal oil high in citronellol and geraniol, added to the EU fragrance-allergen labelling list in 2023.allergen2 masks
  • Pentylene GlycolA humectant with mild antimicrobial activity, often used so a product needs less conventional preservative.48 masks
  • PerlitePuffed volcanic glass used as a soft mineral scrub particle and oil absorber; a plastic-free microbead replacement.2 masks
  • Persea Gratissima (Avocado) OilAvocado oilA rich, green-tinged oil pressed from avocado flesh, high in oleic acid and plant sterols.8 masks
  • Phaseolus Angularis Seed PowderAdzuki bean powderFinely milled adzuki bean, a traditional Japanese soft scrub particle for powder-to-paste cleansers and masks.3 masks
  • Phenethyl AlcoholThe rose-scented alcohol found in rose and jasmine oil; used both for scent and for mild antimicrobial effect.4 masks
  • PhenoxyethanolThe most widely used preservative in European skincare, capped at 1% and effective against bacteria, yeast and mould.max 1%71 masks
  • PhytosphingosineThe sphingoid base that forms the backbone of the phytosphingosine ceramides, and a skin lipid in its own right.5 masks
  • Phytosteryl MacadamiatePlant sterols joined to macadamia fatty acids, mimicking the sterol esters found in skin's surface lipids.3 masks
  • PineneThe main terpene of turpentine and of pine, juniper and cypress oils; declared as an allergen and capped on how oxidised it may be.allergen6 masks
  • Polyglutamic AcidPGAA fermented amino-acid polymer used as a strong humectant; it holds water at the skin surface and leaves a light hydrating film.7 masks
  • Polyglycerin-6A chain of six glycerin units used as a slower-acting, less sticky humectant than glycerin itself.4 masks
  • Polyglyceryl-10 LaurateA very water-loving, PEG-free emulsifier used to dissolve small amounts of oil into clear essences and cleansers.37 masks
  • Polyglyceryl-10 MyristateA mild PEG-free emulsifier and solubiliser, a slightly heavier relative of polyglyceryl-10 laurate.9 masks
  • Polyglyceryl-3 DistearateA plant-derived, PEG-free emulsifier used to build rich water-in-oil or oil-in-water creams.2 masks
  • Polyglyceryl-6 LaurateA gentle PEG-free emulsifier used in micellar waters, essences and low-foam cleansing masks.3 masks
  • Polyquaternium-51A synthetic polymer modelled on cell membrane lipids, used as a long-lasting moisturising film former.2 masks
  • Polysorbate 20A mild non-ionic emulsifier that dissolves small amounts of oil or fragrance into watery essences and toners.14 masks
  • Polysorbate 60The stearate member of the polysorbate family - a mild non-ionic emulsifier suited to creamier textures than polysorbate 20.9 masks
  • Polysorbate 80A mild non-ionic emulsifier, close relative of polysorbate 20, used to blend oils into water-based formulas.2 masks
  • Polyvinyl AlcoholPVAA synthetic water-soluble polymer that dries into a film - the ingredient a peel-off mask is built on.8 masks
  • Portulaca Oleracea ExtractPurslaneA succulent plant extract used in Korean formulas to calm sensitised skin.9 masks
  • Potassium Cetyl PhosphateA phosphate-based emulsifier valued for making stable, water-resistant emulsions, especially in sunscreens.6 masks
  • Potassium ChlorideA simple mineral salt. In the masks here it is almost always part of the jelly rather than anything aimed at skin.21 masks
  • Potassium HyaluronateThe potassium salt of hyaluronic acid - the rare member of the family, and the one whose safety file is largely borrowed from its relatives.8 masks
  • Potassium HydroxideA strong alkali used in trace amounts to raise pH or neutralise gelling polymers; consumed in the reaction.max 5% (nail cuticle solv…7 masks
  • Potassium Methoxysalicylate4MSKA stabilised, water-soluble salicylic acid derivative used mainly to even out tone rather than to exfoliate.1 mask
  • Potassium SorbateA food-grade salt of sorbic acid that stops mould and yeast in acidic formulas.max 0.6%20 masks
  • PropanediolA corn-derived humectant used as a plant-based, better-tolerated replacement for propylene glycol.60 masks
  • Propolis ExtractPropolisA bee-derived resin extract with antioxidant activity - and one of the more common plant-related contact allergens.3 masks
  • Propylene GlycolPGA long-established humectant and solvent. Safe for most people, but a documented, if uncommon, contact allergen.26 masks
  • PropylparabenParabenA longer-chain paraben, restricted in the EU to 0.14% and banned from nappy-area products for under-3s.max 0.14%1 mask
  • Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) OilSweet almond oilA soft, mid-weight oil from sweet almonds, long used for dry skin and massage.13 masks
  • PullulanA fermented sugar polymer that dries to a thin, flexible film, giving the temporary tightening feel in many masks.7 masks
  • PumiceGround volcanic rock used as a physical scrub particle: effective, but abrasive and easy to overdo on the face.4 masks
  • PVM/MA CopolymerA synthetic film-forming polymer that makes peel-off masks set into a coherent sheet and helps other ingredients stay put.11 masks

Q

  • Quaternium-15A formaldehyde-releasing preservative that has been prohibited in EU cosmetics since 2019.EU bannednot used

R

  • ResveratrolA grape and knotweed polyphenol used as an antioxidant, with promising lab data but modest clinical evidence.not used
  • RetinolRetinolThe best-evidenced over-the-counter vitamin A derivative for fine lines; now capped by EU law and not for use in pregnancy.max 0.3% Retinol Equivale…6 masks
  • Retinyl PalmitateVitamin A palmitateA gentler, more stable vitamin A ester than retinol, and correspondingly weaker; subject to the same EU vitamin A limits.max 0.3% Retinol Equivale…3 masks
  • Rice Ferment FiltrateSake fermentThe filtered liquid from fermented rice, used as a light hydrator in Japanese-style skincare.3 masks
  • Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed OilCastor oilA thick, glossy oil roughly 90% ricinoleic acid, unusual among plant oils for being water-attracting.1 mask
  • Rosa Canina Fruit OilRosehip oilA fast-oxidising, highly polyunsaturated oil from rose hips, popular for scarring and uneven tone.2 masks
  • Rosa Damascena Flower WaterRose waterThe scented water left after distilling damask rose petals; used mainly for its smell and as a nicer-sounding replacement for water.8 masks
  • Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf ExtractRosemary leaf extractA solvent or water extract of rosemary leaf carrying the antioxidant diterpenes carnosol and carnosic acid - a different material from rosemary leaf oil.10 masks
  • Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf OilRosemary oilA camphor-scented herbal oil used for its fresh smell and mild antioxidant activity; not itself on the EU allergen list.5 masks

S

  • Saccharide IsomerateA plant-sugar complex designed to bind to skin proteins for longer-lasting hydration than a standard humectant.7 masks
  • Saccharomyces Ferment FiltrateYeast fermentA filtered yeast fermentation broth used as a lightweight hydrator and skin conditioner.1 mask
  • Salicylic AcidBeta hydroxy acidAn oil-soluble exfoliating acid that works inside pores; the EU caps it at 2% in most face products.max 2% (most face product…14 masks
  • Salvia Officinalis (Sage) OilSage oilA sharp camphoraceous herb oil high in thujone and camphor; used sparingly and kept well diluted.2 masks
  • Salvia Sclarea (Clary Sage) OilClary sage oilA herbaceous, slightly musky oil dominated by linalyl acetate and linalool; low in thujone unlike common sage.2 masks
  • Santalum Album (Sandalwood) OilSandalwood oilA creamy woody oil rich in santalols, added to the EU fragrance-allergen labelling list in 2023.allergen2 masks
  • Sclerotium GumA fungal beta-glucan gum that thickens water and holds an emulsion together, used from three-thousandths of a per cent upwards.9 masks
  • Scutellaria Baicalensis Root ExtractBaikal skullcapA skullcap root extract rich in baicalin, used to calm irritated skin and add antioxidant protection.9 masks
  • SerineAn amino acid that is part of the skin's natural moisturising factor, used as a gentle hydrating ingredient.4 masks
  • SilicaSilicaAmorphous silicon dioxide used to absorb oil, soften texture and stop powders caking.14 masks
  • Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed OilJojoba oilTechnically a liquid wax rather than an oil, structurally close to the wax esters skin makes itself.12 masks
  • Snail Secretion FiltrateSnail mucinA hydrating, film-forming snail-derived ingredient that feels excellent on skin but has weak human trial evidence.3 masks
  • Sodium Acetylated HyaluronateAcetylated HAA modified hyaluronic acid that clings to skin better than the standard form, giving longer-lasting surface hydration.13 masks
  • Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate CopolymerA synthetic copolymer of sodium acrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate, used to thicken creams and hold emulsions together, and reviewed as safe as used.1 mask
  • Sodium AnisateThe sodium salt of an acid found in anise, used to help keep natural formulas fresh - but not one of the preservatives the EU permits as such.8 masks
  • Sodium Ascorbyl PhosphateStable vitamin CA stable, water-soluble vitamin C derivative that works at skin-friendly pH without the sting of pure ascorbic acid.5 masks
  • Sodium BenzoateThe salt of benzoic acid; a mild, food-grade preservative that only works in acidic formulas.max 0.5%22 masks
  • Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-GlucanCM-glucanA water-soluble modified beta-glucan used for its soothing and barrier-supporting properties in masks and after-sun products.1 mask
  • Sodium ChlorideTable saltTable salt. It is one of the compounds the skin's own moisturising factor is made of, and in a mask it is doing a formulation job.11 masks
  • Sodium CitrateThe salt of citric acid, used with it as a buffer to hold a product at a steady pH.22 masks
  • Sodium DehydroacetateThe water-soluble salt of dehydroacetic acid, capped at 0.6% in the EU and not allowed in sprays.max 0.6%5 masks
  • Sodium HyaluronateHyaluronic acid (salt form)The salt form of hyaluronic acid; a water-binding sugar that holds moisture at the skin surface and makes skin look smoother and plumper.125 masks
  • Sodium Hyaluronate CrosspolymerCross-linked HAHyaluronic acid chemically linked into a gel network so it sits on the skin longer and releases moisture more gradually.17 masks
  • Sodium HydroxideLyeA strong alkali used in trace amounts to raise a product's pH; it is used up in the process and is not present as lye on your skin.max 5% (nail cuticle solv…39 masks
  • Sodium LactateThe sodium salt of lactic acid and a component of skin's own natural moisturising factor; a humectant and buffer rather than an exfoliant.10 masks
  • Sodium Laureth SulfateSLESA foaming cleansing agent used in wash-off products; a gentler relative of SLS, but still a strong detergent.2 masks
  • Sodium LevulinateThe sodium salt of levulinic acid, and in water barely distinguishable from it; the other half of a preservative system that is not legally a preservative.14 masks
  • Sodium PCANaPCAOne of the main water-binding compounds in the skin's own natural moisturising factor, used as a highly effective humectant.9 masks
  • Sodium PhytateA plant-derived chelator from rice or corn bran that binds metals and is favoured in 'clean' formulas.16 masks
  • Sodium PolyacrylateA water-absorbing polymer used to thicken formulas and to hold large amounts of essence in hydrogel masks.18 masks
  • Sodium SalicylateThe sodium salt of salicylic acid, permitted as a preservative up to 0.5% and off-limits for under-3s.max 0.5%1 mask
  • Sodium Stearoyl GlutamateA mild amino-acid-based emulsifier made from glutamic acid and stearic acid, common in gentle formulas.15 masks
  • Sorbic AcidThe free acid of the sorbate preservatives, capped at 0.6% across the whole family and only active in an acidic formula.max 0.6%6 masks
  • Sorbitan IsostearateA branched-chain sorbitan ester that emulsifies oils and helps cleansing balms rinse away cleanly.9 masks
  • Sorbitan OleateAn oil-loving sorbitan ester used with a water-loving partner to stabilise creams and cleansing oils.2 masks
  • Sorbitan OlivateAn olive-derived sorbitan ester used with cetearyl olivate as a plant-based emulsifier system.7 masks
  • SorbitolSugar alcoholA sugar alcohol humectant, similar to glycerin but slightly less sticky; also common in toothpaste and sugar-free foods.20 masks
  • SqualaneSqualaneA light, very stable oil related to a lipid skin already makes, used to soften skin without a greasy feel.22 masks
  • Stearic AcidA common vegetable-derived fatty acid used to thicken creams and, with an alkali, to form the emulsifier itself.19 masks
  • Stearyl AlcoholFatty alcoholAn 18-carbon fatty alcohol used as a waxy thickener and softener. It does not dry the skin.5 masks
  • SucroseTable sugarOrdinary table sugar, used in a mask as a humectant.11 masks
  • SulfurSulfurA yellow mineral element used in blemish masks to reduce oil and surface bacteria; effective but distinctly smelly.not used

T

  • TalcTalcA soft magnesium silicate mineral used for slip and oil absorption; classified by IARC in 2024 as probably carcinogenic to humans.not used
  • Tannic AcidTanninA plant polyphenol with a tightening, astringent feel; an antioxidant rather than a true exfoliant.3 masks
  • Tartaric AcidA grape-derived fruit acid used mainly to fine-tune pH; only at high levels does it exfoliate.3 masks
  • TerpineolA lilac-scented terpene alcohol on the EU declared-allergen list, carrying the thinnest human evidence of the declared terpenes here.allergen6 masks
  • Tetramethyl AcetyloctahydronaphthalenesOTNEA very widely used woody-amber synthetic fragrance material, added to the EU declared-allergen list in 2023.allergen10 masks
  • Tetrasodium Glutamate DiacetateGLDAA readily biodegradable chelator built on the amino acid glutamic acid, used instead of EDTA.9 masks
  • Tin OxideAn insoluble white mineral oxide used to make a formula look opaque or to carry a lustre; not a colourant in the regulatory sense.8 masks
  • Titanium DioxideTitanium dioxideA bright white mineral pigment and mineral UV filter; the EU restricts inhalable powder and spray forms, not creams.max 25% as UV filter24 masks
  • TocopherolVitamin EThe active free form of vitamin E, used both to condition skin and to stop the oils in a product going rancid.87 masks
  • Tocopheryl AcetateVitamin E acetateA stable ester of vitamin E that skin enzymes must convert before it becomes active.21 masks
  • Tranexamic AcidA synthetic amino acid derivative, originally a clotting medicine, now widely used topically for stubborn pigmentation.1 mask
  • TrehaloseA sugar that some organisms use to survive drying out; in skincare it is a gentle humectant with early evidence for cell protection.29 masks
  • TriclosanA chlorinated antibacterial restricted in the EU to a short list of product types; not permitted in face masks.max 0.3% in listed produc…not used
  • TriethylhexanoinA light, odourless synthetic oil that softens skin and dissolves oil-soluble ingredients without feeling heavy.2 masks
  • TriheptanoinA synthetic, very light triglyceride built from a seven-carbon fatty acid, used as a clean-feeling emollient.3 masks
  • Trisodium Ethylenediamine DisuccinateEDDSA biodegradable EDTA alternative that binds trace metals to keep a formula stable.4 masks
  • TromethamineTRISA mild organic base used to raise pH and neutralise gelling polymers, often replacing triethanolamine.13 masks

U

  • UbiquinoneCoenzyme Q10The antioxidant sold as Q10 - made by the body, concentrated in the epidermis, and used in cosmetics at hundredths of a per cent.6 masks
  • UreaCarbamideA natural component of skin's own moisturising factor; hydrates at low levels and softens thickened skin at high levels.4 masks

V

W

  • WaterWaterThe base of almost every sheet mask, cream mask and gel; it dissolves the other ingredients and carries them onto the skin.211 masks

X

  • Xanthan GumXanthanA fermentation-derived sugar polymer that thickens watery formulas and stops ingredients separating.158 masks
  • XylitolBirch sugarA sugar alcohol humectant, best known from chewing gum, used in skincare to hold water in the outer skin layer.11 masks
  • XylitylglucosideA sugar-based humectant, the third component of the common xylitol hydrating blend.11 masks

Z

  • Zea Mays (Corn) StarchCorn starchFood-grade corn starch used to absorb oil and give masks a soft, powdery, matte finish.7 masks
  • Zinc GluconateA water-soluble zinc salt used to calm blemish-prone skin, capped by the EU at 1% expressed as zinc.max 1% (as zinc)5 masks
  • Zinc LactateA water-soluble zinc salt that the EU's class heading for zinc salts appears to reach, though the entry's glossary column does not name it.4 masks
  • Zinc OxideZinc oxideA white mineral used to calm and protect skin, absorb oil, and filter UV; restricted in the EU to 25% as a sunscreen filter.max 25% as a UV filter4 masks
  • Zinc PCAThe zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, used for its astringent and antimicrobial properties - and the zinc salt whose EU status is least settled.8 masks
  • Zinc RicinoleateThe zinc salt of ricinoleic acid, used to bind odour compounds rather than to treat skin - and the one zinc salt here the EU cap clearly does not reach.1 mask
  • Zinc SulfateA water-soluble zinc salt, and one the EU names in Annex III by name - capped at 1% (as zinc) in products other than oral care.max 1% (as zinc)1 mask
  • Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root ExtractGinger root extractA ginger root extract used at a fraction of a per cent; found safe on one condition, which is that the formulator keeps the product non-sensitising.11 masks
  • Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit ExtractJujubeA fruit extract from the Chinese red date, used for gentle hydration and antioxidant support.1 mask