Polysorbate 80
No meaningful concern for most people; irritation is possible but rare.
Also written as: Tween 80 · Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monooleate
What it is
Polysorbate 80 is ethoxylated sorbitan monooleate. It works like polysorbate 20 but with a longer, less saturated fatty chain, so it suits slightly heavier oils. It is used at low levels in essences, lotions and cleansing products, and is also a common excipient in medicines.
What it does well
Disperses oils reliably in water-based products
A long-established non-ionic emulsifier used across cosmetics, food and pharmaceuticals.
Strong evidence
Worth knowing
Documented, though uncommon, hypersensitivity
Polysorbate 80 has been linked to non-immunologic anaphylactoid reactions in injected medical products and to delayed contact allergy confirmed by patch testing. Topical cosmetic use at low percentage is a much lower-risk exposure.
Matters most toPeople with a diagnosed polysorbate or PEG excipient allergy.
Where the EU stands
No specific restriction
No EU concentration limit. Ethoxylation residues are controlled through the Article 17 traces provision.
Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, Article 17 (traces of prohibited substances) · source ↗
Sources (2)
Every link goes to the original: a journal, a PubMed record or an EU document.
- [1]Polysorbate 80 in medical products and nonimmunologic anaphylactoid reactions
Annals of Allergy, Asthma & Immunology · 2005 · doi:10.1016/s1081-1206(10)61024-1
Polysorbate 80 can cause non-immunologic anaphylactoid reactions when given by injection, a finding specific to that route of exposure.
- [2]A case of delayed allergy to polyethylene glycol 2000 and polysorbate 80 confirmed by patch test: Consequences for anti-SARS-CoV2 vaccination?
Contact Dermatitis · 2022 · doi:10.1111/cod.14131
Delayed allergy to polysorbate 80 was confirmed by patch testing in an individual case.
