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Hydrogenated Lecithin

Well toleratedEmulsifieremulsifieremollientskin conditioning

No meaningful concern for most people; irritation is possible but rare.

Also written as: Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine · Hydrogenated Soy Lecithin

What it is

Lecithin is a mixture of phospholipids, the same class of molecule that makes up cell membranes; hydrogenating it saturates the fatty acid tails so it no longer oxidises or smells. In this form it self-assembles into liposomes and into lamellar emulsions whose structure resembles the layered lipids of the skin barrier. It is one of the most common ingredients in Korean and Japanese masks, where it emulsifies the oil phase without harsh surfactants.

What it does well

  • Emulsifies gently and builds barrier-like lamellar structures

    Phospholipid emulsifiers form layered structures similar to the skin's own lipid organisation, which is why they are favoured in products for sensitive and barrier-impaired skin over strong detergent-type emulsifiers. They are also used to encapsulate and stabilise oil-soluble actives.

    Moderate evidence

Worth knowing

  • Usually derived from soy

    Most cosmetic lecithin comes from soybeans or sunflower seeds. Processing removes essentially all protein, and cosmetic reactions in soy-allergic people are not an established problem, but sunflower-derived grades are available for those who want to avoid soy entirely.

    Matters most toPeople with a diagnosed soy allergy who prefer to be cautious.

Where the EU stands

No specific restriction

Not listed in any Annex of the EU Cosmetics Regulation, so there is no specific concentration limit; it is still covered by the general safety assessment every cosmetic product must pass before sale.

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Masks that contain Hydrogenated Lecithin