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Gluconolactone

PHA

Well toleratedExfoliantexfolianthumectantchelator

No meaningful concern for most people; irritation is possible but rare.

Also written as: PHA · Polyhydroxy Acid · Glucono-Delta-Lactone · D-Gluconic Acid Lactone

What it is

Gluconolactone is the ring form of gluconic acid, a sugar acid made by fermenting glucose. It is classed as a polyhydroxy acid (PHA): several hydroxyl groups make the molecule large and strongly water-binding, so it exfoliates more slowly than an AHA and moisturises at the same time. It also chelates trace metals, which helps formula stability, and is frequently chosen for sensitive or rosacea-prone skin.

What it does well

  • Comparable anti-ageing results to an AHA with less stinging

    A 12-week controlled comparison found a gluconolactone regimen matched a glycolic acid regimen on most photoageing measures while producing significantly less stinging and burning. Worth noting the study was run by a PHA manufacturer.

    Moderate evidence

  • Acts as a humectant as well as an exfoliant

    Its multiple hydroxyl groups bind water, so it does not have the drying reputation that stronger AHAs carry.

    Limited evidence

Worth knowing

  • Works slowly

    The trade-off for the gentleness is that visible results take longer than with a comparable AHA, and it is a poor choice if you want a rapid resurfacing effect.

    Matters most toAnyone expecting peel-like results from a PHA mask.

Where the EU stands

No specific restriction

Not listed in any Annex of the EU Cosmetics Regulation and subject to no specific limit. It is sometimes supplied blended with sodium benzoate as a preservative system, and the sodium benzoate part of that blend is separately capped under Annex V.

source ↗

Sources (1)

Every link goes to the original: a journal, a PubMed record or an EU document.

  1. [1]
    A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimen

    Cutis · 2004

    Over 12 weeks a gluconolactone regimen gave anti-ageing benefits equivalent to a glycolic acid regimen on most measures while being significantly better tolerated; the authors were employed by a PHA manufacturer.

Masks that contain Gluconolactone