Pumice

What it is

Pumice is a light, porous volcanic rock, ground to a powder for cosmetic use, the same material as the pumice stone used on feet. Its particles are hard and irregularly shaped, which makes it an efficient abrasive. In face masks and scrubs it physically dislodges loose surface flakes. Particle size, edge shape and how hard you rub matter far more than the percentage listed on the pack.

What it does well

• Removes loose surface flakes immediately

  Mechanical exfoliation demonstrably thins the stratum corneum and changes barrier measurements, which is the same mechanism behind the visible smoothing people notice straight after use.

  Moderate evidence

• A biodegradable mineral replacement for plastic microbeads

  EU law has banned synthetic polymer microparticles used as abrasives since 17 October 2023, and natural mineral grits such as pumice are one of the compliant alternatives.

  Strong evidence

Worth knowing

• Abrasive particles can irritate, especially on inflamed skin

  Coarser pumice grades have sharp edges. Scrubbing over active spots or rosacea tends to spread inflammation and prolong redness rather than clear it.

  Matters most toPeople with sensitive or rosacea-prone skin, active acne, or anyone using retinoids or acids.

• Temporarily disrupts the skin barrier

  Studies of mechanical exfoliation show transepidermal water loss rises immediately after treatment and stays raised for about 24 hours, returning to baseline by day two. The widely repeated claim of permanent 'micro-tears' from facial scrubs has not been demonstrated in published human research; what is measurable is short-lived barrier disruption, which becomes a problem only if you scrub before the skin has recovered.

  Matters most toAnyone tempted to use a scrub mask more than once or twice a week.

Where the EU stands

Sources (3)

Every link goes to the original: a journal, a PubMed record or an EU document.

1. [1]
   Skin barrier changes induced by aluminum oxide and sodium chloride microdermabrasion

   Dermatologic Surgery · 2002 · doi:10.1046/j.1524-4725.2002.01239.x

   Both abrasive materials measurably altered the epidermal barrier, which the authors suggest is the mechanism behind the clinical improvement seen after mechanical exfoliation.

2. [2]
   Skin barrier function recovery after diamond microdermabrasion

   The Journal of Dermatology · 2009 · doi:10.1111/j.1346-8138.2009.00695.x

   Transepidermal water loss rose immediately after mechanical abrasion and at 24 hours, but returned to baseline by day two, suggesting weekly rather than daily use gives skin time to recover.

3. [3]
   Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/2055 amending Annex XVII to REACH as regards synthetic polymer microparticles

   EU Commission / EUR-Lex · 2023

   Plastic microbeads used to exfoliate, polish or clean have been prohibited in the EU since 17 October 2023, with no transitional period for that use.