Glyceryl Caprylate

What it is

Glyceryl caprylate is an ester of glycerin and caprylic acid, a fatty acid from coconut or palm kernel oil. It works as a gentle co-emulsifier and emollient while also disrupting microbial cell membranes, so it is a common component of preservative-free-labelled systems. It is not an EU-listed preservative because its primary declared function is emulsification and skin conditioning.

What it does well

• Combines emulsifying, softening and antimicrobial roles

  Being able to do three jobs at once keeps ingredient lists short and reduces the amount of dedicated preservative a formula needs.

  Moderate evidence

Worth knowing

• May not suit very oily or acne-prone skin at higher levels

  As a fatty-acid ester it adds a small amount of lipid to the formula; there is no strong evidence that it triggers breakouts, but people prone to congestion sometimes prefer lower-lipid masks.

  Matters most toPeople with acne-prone or very oily skin who react to fatty esters.

Where the EU stands