Centella Asiatica Extract

What it is

Centella asiatica is a small marsh plant used in traditional Asian and Ayurvedic medicine, often called gotu kola or tiger grass. Cosmetic extracts are standardised to a group of active compounds - madecassoside, asiaticoside, madecassic acid and asiatic acid - collectively known as TECA or ECa 233. Formulators use it in "cica" creams and masks because it is one of the few botanicals with genuine controlled trial data behind it.

What it does well

• Speeds recovery and reduces redness after skin procedures

  In a 30-person split-face, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, a standardised Centella extract significantly reduced erythema and improved wound appearance in the early period after laser resurfacing. Not all biophysical measures differed from placebo.

  Moderate evidence

• Modestly improves fine wrinkles and skin hydration

  A systematic review and network meta-analysis of five randomised trials (172 women) found Centella improved lip and periocular wrinkles and raised skin hydration, with far fewer adverse events than tretinoin. The authors cautioned that extracts are not standardised between products.

  Moderate evidence

• Helps a compromised skin barrier feel less reactive

  Small studies and long clinical use support a barrier-supporting, anti-inflammatory effect, which is why it is common in post-procedure and sensitive-skin products. The effect size in everyday cosmetic use is modest.

  Limited evidence

Worth knowing

• Occasional contact allergy

  Allergic contact dermatitis to Centella and to its purified fractions is documented in dermatology literature, but it is uncommon relative to how widely the ingredient is used.

  Matters most toPeople who have reacted to a cica product before, or who patch-test positive to plant extracts.

Where the EU stands

Sources (2)

Every link goes to the original: a journal, a PubMed record or an EU document.

1. [1]
   Efficacy and Safety of Centella Asiatica (L.) Urb. on Wrinkles: A Systematic Review of Published Data and Network Meta-Analysis

   Journal of Cosmetic Science · 2020

   Across five randomised trials in 172 women, Centella improved lip and periocular wrinkles and increased hydration with fewer adverse events than tretinoin, though formulations were not standardised.

2. [2]
   The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trial

   Journal of Alternative and Complementary Medicine · 2020 · doi:10.1089/acm.2019.0325

   In 30 patients, the standardised extract ECa 233 significantly reduced redness and improved early wound appearance after laser resurfacing compared with placebo on the other side of the face.