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Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract

Licorice

Well toleratedBotanicalsoothingbrighteningantioxidanthumectant

No meaningful concern for most people; irritation is possible but rare.

Also written as: Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate · Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract · Glycyrrhiza Glabra Rhizome/Root Extract · Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract · Glabridin · Licorice Extract · Glycyrrhizic Acid · Glycyrrhetinic Acid

What it is

Licorice root extract contains two useful families of compounds: glabridin and related flavonoids, which interfere with pigment production, and glycyrrhizin, a saponin with anti-inflammatory activity. Dipotassium glycyrrhizate is a purified, water-soluble potassium salt of glycyrrhizic acid used specifically as a soothing agent and humectant, and appears on packs in its own right. Formulators use whole-root extract for brightening and the purified salt for calming redness.

How it shows up on a label

"Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate" high on an INCI list usually signals a product formulated for soothing; whole "Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract" more often signals a brightening claim.

What it does well

  • Calms redness and irritation

    Glycyrrhizin and its salts have well-characterised anti-inflammatory activity and dipotassium glycyrrhizate is a standard soothing agent in products for reactive skin. Most supporting data comes from small studies and lab work rather than large trials.

    Moderate evidence

  • Gradually softens dark marks and uneven tone

    Glabridin inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme that drives pigment production. A 40-woman open-label study of a gel containing glabridin plus two other actives showed significant improvement in epidermal melasma, but it had no placebo arm and the effect cannot be attributed to licorice alone.

    Limited evidence

  • Adds mild antioxidant and humectant properties

    Licorice flavonoids scavenge free radicals in laboratory assays, and the glycyrrhizate salts hold water at the skin surface.

    Limited evidence

Worth knowing

  • Brightening effect is slow and subtle

    Licorice is a gentle tyrosinase inhibitor, not a bleaching agent. Expect gradual softening of marks over months, not the effect of a prescription treatment.

    Matters most toAnyone buying a licorice product expecting rapid results on melasma or post-acne marks.

  • Rare contact allergy

    Allergic reactions to topical licorice are uncommon but reported. The systemic effects associated with eating large amounts of licorice - raised blood pressure and low potassium - are not a recognised risk from cosmetic use on the skin.

    Matters most toPeople with a known legume (Fabaceae) or licorice sensitivity.

Where the EU stands

No specific restriction

Not listed in any Annex of the EU Cosmetics Regulation, so there is no specific concentration limit; it is still covered by the general safety assessment every cosmetic product must pass before sale.

Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 - no annex entry · source ↗

Sources (1)

Every link goes to the original: a journal, a PubMed record or an EU document.

  1. [1]
    A new proprietary gel containing glabridin, andrographolide, and apolactoferrin improves the appearance of epidermal melasma in adult women

    Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology · 2020 · doi:10.1111/jocd.13161

    All endpoints improved significantly from baseline in 40 women with epidermal melasma, but the study was an uncontrolled open-label pilot of a three-active gel and the authors called for placebo-controlled confirmation.

Masks that contain Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract