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Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Oil

Lemon peel oil

Worth knowingEssential oilfragrancemaskingEU-declared fragrance allergen

EU-restricted, a common contact allergen, or subject to live debate.

Also written as: Citrus Limon Peel Oil · Lemon Oil · Citrus Medica Limonum Peel Oil · Cold-pressed Lemon Oil

What it is

Lemon peel oil is cold-pressed from the rind of Citrus limon and is around 60 to 75% limonene, with citral and beta-pinene making up much of the rest. Cold pressing keeps the non-volatile fraction, which includes furocoumarins such as oxypeucedanin and bergapten. Steam-distilled and furocoumarin-free grades exist and do not carry the same phototoxic concern.

What it does well

  • Bright, familiar citrus scent

    Lemon oil is one of the most recognisable natural top notes. This is a sensory function with no established skin benefit.

    Strong evidence

Worth knowing

  • Cold-pressed lemon oil is phototoxic

    Its furocoumarins absorb UVA and can cause burning, blistering and long-lasting brown pigmentation on sun-exposed skin. The fragrance industry restricts cold-pressed lemon oil to well under 2% in leave-on products for exactly this reason.

    Matters most toAnyone using a leave-on lemon-scented product before sun exposure.

  • High limonene content, which oxidises

    As lemon oil ages its limonene forms hydroperoxides that are meaningful contact allergens, on top of the phototoxicity issue.

    Matters most toPeople with a fragrance or terpene allergy.

Where the EU stands

Concentration-restricted

Two rules apply. Furocoumarins are prohibited under Annex II entry 358 except for the normal content of the natural essences used, and must be below 1 mg/kg in sun protection and bronzing products. Separately, Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 added Citrus Limon Peel Oil as Annex III entry 353, requiring it to be declared as a fragrance allergen above 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products.

Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, Annex II entry 358 and Annex III entry 353 (inserted by Regulation (EU) 2023/1545) · source ↗

Masks that contain Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Oil