Skip to content
be sonatural, Face masks, read from the back

Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Oil

Lemon peel oil

Worth knowingEssential oilfragrancemaskingEU-declared fragrance allergen

EU-restricted, a common contact allergen, or subject to live debate.

Also written as: Citrus Limon Peel Oil · Lemon Oil · Citrus Medica Limonum Peel Oil · Cold-pressed Lemon Oil

What it is

Lemon peel oil is cold-pressed from the rind of Citrus limon and is around 60 to 75% limonene, with citral and beta-pinene making up much of the rest. Cold pressing keeps the non-volatile fraction, which includes furocoumarins such as oxypeucedanin and bergapten. Steam-distilled and furocoumarin-free grades exist and do not carry the same phototoxic concern.

How it shows up on a label

In a rinse-off mask the phototoxicity risk is largely removed because the oil is washed away before sun exposure. In a leave-on formula, prefer products that specify a furocoumarin-free or steam-distilled grade.

What it does well

  • Bright, familiar citrus scent

    Lemon oil is one of the most recognisable natural top notes. This is a sensory function with no established skin benefit.

    Strong evidence

Worth knowing

  • Cold-pressed lemon oil is phototoxic

    Its furocoumarins absorb UVA and can cause burning, blistering and long-lasting brown pigmentation on sun-exposed skin. Reviewing furocoumarins for the Commission, the SCCP could not rule out phototoxicity for any of them, and noted that people go into sunlight after using all kinds of cosmetic product, not only sun protection and bronzing ones.

    Matters most toAnyone using a leave-on lemon-scented product before sun exposure.

  • High limonene content, which oxidises

    As lemon oil ages its limonene forms hydroperoxides that are meaningful contact allergens, on top of the phototoxicity issue.

    Matters most toPeople with a fragrance or terpene allergy.

Where the EU stands

Concentration-restricted

Two rules apply. Furocoumarins are prohibited under Annex II entry 358 except for the normal content of the natural essences used, and must be below 1 mg/kg in sun protection and bronzing products. Separately, Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 added Citrus Limon Peel Oil as Annex III entry 353, requiring it to be declared as a fragrance allergen above 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products.

Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, Annex II entry 358 and Annex III entry 353 (inserted by Regulation (EU) 2023/1545) · source ↗

Sources (1)

Every link goes to the original: a journal, a PubMed record or an EU document.

  1. [1]
    Opinion on Furocoumarins in Cosmetic Products (SCCP/0942/05)

    SCCP - Scientific Committee on Consumer Products, European Commission · 2005

    The data submitted did not rule out the phototoxicity of any known furocoumarin, and the committee stressed that consumers are exposed to sunlight after using many kinds of cosmetic product, not only sun protection and bronzing products, so total furocoumarins above 1 ppm in any finished product remain a consumer-safety concern.

Masks that contain Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Oil