Cymbopogon Martini (Palmarosa) Oil
Palmarosa oil
Genuinely relevant for some people, or depends on dose and pH.
Also written as: Palmarosa Oil · Cymbopogon Martinii Oil · Indian Geranium Oil · Rosha Grass Oil
What it is
Palmarosa is a scented grass related to lemongrass and citronella. Its steam-distilled oil is unusually pure chemically, typically 75 to 85% geraniol, with geranyl acetate making up much of the rest. That composition makes it a cheap natural source of rose-type scent and a common ingredient in natural-positioned skincare.
What it does well
Antifungal and antibacterial activity in the laboratory
Geraniol-rich oils inhibit several microorganisms in vitro. The doses used in those studies far exceed cosmetic levels, so palmarosa should not be relied on as an antimicrobial in a mask.
Limited evidence
Worth knowing
Very high geraniol content means a high declared-allergen load
Because palmarosa is roughly four fifths geraniol, even a small percentage in a formula will require Geraniol to be declared. Geraniol's allergenic potency rises substantially when oxidised, and Geranyl Acetate joined the labelling list in 2023 as well.
Matters most toPeople with a known geraniol or fragrance mix I allergy.
Where the EU stands
No specific restriction
Palmarosa oil is not itself listed in Annex II or on the Annex III fragrance-allergen labelling list, which names Lemongrass Oil (entry 354) from a different Cymbopogon species. Its geraniol content must be declared as Geraniol, Annex III entry 78, above the usual thresholds.
