Trehalose

What it is

Trehalose is a double sugar made of two glucose units, produced industrially from starch using enzymes. It is best known biologically as the compound that lets resurrection plants, tardigrades and baker's yeast survive near-total dehydration by stabilising their membranes and proteins. In cosmetics it works as a mild, non-sticky humectant, and it is widely used in food and in freeze-dried medicines as a stabiliser.

What it does well

• Binds water and helps stabilise skin cell structures during drying

  Trehalose's protective effect on membranes and proteins under dehydration is very well documented in biology and pharmaceutical science. Its translation into measurable skin benefit at cosmetic concentrations is plausible but less directly studied.

  Moderate evidence

• May offer some protection against UV-related cell damage

  In laboratory human keratinocytes, trehalose delivered in liposomes reduced three separate markers of UVB damage more effectively than several established antioxidants. This is cell-culture work, not a clinical trial, and it is not a reason to treat trehalose as sun protection.

  Limited evidence

• Very gentle and non-irritating

  Trehalose is an edible sugar with no recognised sensitisation potential, making it a reasonable choice for reactive skin.

  Strong evidence

Worth knowing

• Marketing often outruns the evidence

  The tardigrade and resurrection-plant story is striking, but the human skin evidence for trehalose specifically is thinner than for glycerin or panthenol. It is a good humectant, not a breakthrough active.

  Matters most toAnyone paying a premium for trehalose-led products.

Where the EU stands

Sources (2)

Every link goes to the original: a journal, a PubMed record or an EU document.

1. [1]
   Protective effect of trehalose-loaded liposomes against UVB-induced photodamage in human keratinocytes

   Biomedical Reports · 2014

   In cultured human keratinocytes, liposomal trehalose reduced three markers of UVB damage more effectively than L-carnosine, ergothioneine, ascorbic acid or alpha-tocopherol.

2. [2]
   Functional properties and skin care effects of sodium trehalose sulfate

   Skin Research and Technology · 2024

   A four-week randomised trial of a sulfated trehalose derivative reduced water loss and raised stratum corneum water content versus placebo; note this tested a derivative, not plain trehalose.