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Sodium Hyaluronate

Hyaluronic acid (salt form)

Well toleratedHumectanthumectantskin-conditioningfilm-former

No meaningful concern for most people; irritation is possible but rare.

Also written as: Hyaluronan · Sodium Hyaluronan · HA

What it is

Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a long sugar chain that occurs naturally in skin, joints and eyes. Cosmetic grades are made by bacterial fermentation rather than from animal tissue. Formulators prefer the salt to the free acid because it dissolves more readily in water and is more stable in a finished product. It is the single most common hydrating ingredient in sheet masks and hydrating gel masks.

What it does well

  • Measurably increases skin surface hydration

    Instrument-based studies (corneometry) consistently show higher stratum corneum water content after application, with effects visible immediately and sustained over four to eight weeks of use. This is one of the better-evidenced claims in cosmetic science.

    Strong evidence

  • Temporarily softens the look of fine lines and rough texture

    Controlled studies report reductions in measured wrinkle depth and improved smoothness, but the effect comes from swelling the surface layers with water rather than from rebuilding skin. It fades when you stop using it.

    Moderate evidence

  • Very well tolerated, including on compromised skin

    Hyaluronate is identical in structure to a molecule the body already makes and has an unusually low rate of irritation and allergy. Trials in elderly dry skin found the same safety profile as a plain vehicle cream.

    Strong evidence

Worth knowing

  • The hydration is surface-level and temporary

    Sodium hyaluronate binds water in the outermost skin layers; it does not replace hyaluronic acid lost from the dermis with age. Expect a plumper, better-hydrated surface, not structural change.

    Matters most toAnyone buying on the promise of long-term anti-ageing results from a hyaluronic acid mask.

  • Claim that it dries skin out in very dry air

    The popular warning that hyaluronic acid pulls water out of deeper skin in low humidity is a theoretical extrapolation, not something demonstrated in any published clinical study. Following it with a moisturiser is still sensible practice for any humectant.

    Matters most toPeople in very dry indoor heating or arid climates who apply a hyaluronic acid serum and leave it bare.

Where the EU stands

No specific restriction

Not restricted under the EU Cosmetics Regulation. It does not appear in Annex II (prohibited), Annex III (restricted) or Annex V (preservatives), and carries no EU concentration limit.

Sources (5)

Every link goes to the original: a journal, a PubMed record or an EU document.

  1. [1]
    Multicenter evaluation of a topical hyaluronic acid serum

    Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology · 2022 · doi:10.1111/jocd.15241

    A topical hyaluronic acid serum produced statistically significant increases in measured skin hydration by weeks 4 and 8, alongside investigator-rated improvements in fine lines, texture and dryness.

  2. [2]
    Effectiveness of topical hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in xerosis cutis treatment in elderly: a double-blind, randomized controlled trial

    Archives of Dermatological Research · 2024 · doi:10.1007/s00403-024-03003-2

    Both molecular weights raised skin hydration versus vehicle in elderly dry skin, with the same safety profile; low molecular weight performed slightly better on capacitance but not on water loss or symptoms.

  3. [3]
    Hyaluronic Acid in Topical Applications: The Various Forms and Biological Effects of a Hero Molecule in the Cosmetics Industry

    Biomolecules · 2025 · doi:10.3390/biom15121656

    Review concluding that hyaluronic acid below roughly 100 kDa can cross the stratum corneum while larger grades stay on the surface, and that the surrounding formulation strongly affects the result.

  4. [4]
    Safety Assessment of Hyaluronates as Used in Cosmetics

    Cosmetic Ingredient Review, Final Report · 2023

    The final report, released 7 July 2023, and the only published use figure for this ingredient. It records that "the results of the 2021 concentration of use survey conducted by the Council indicate Sodium Hyaluronate also has the highest concentration of use; it is used at up to 7.5% in face and neck products (not spray)", against "up to 2%" reported in 2005. That is a maximum reported to an industry survey, not a typical mask formula, and the report publishes no typical figure. Frequency has risen with it: 4713 formulations in the 2023 FDA VCRP data against 601 in 2005. On EU status it states that "all of the hyaluronate ingredients named in the report are not restricted from use in any way under the rules governing cosmetic products in the European Union". Checked 29 August 2026.

  5. [5]
    Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment

    Journal of Drugs in Dermatology · 2011

    All tested 0.1% hyaluronan creams significantly improved hydration and elasticity versus placebo over 60 days, with the lower molecular weight versions also reducing wrinkle depth.

Masks that contain Sodium Hyaluronate