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Panthenol

Provitamin B5

Well toleratedHumectanthumectantskin conditioningsoothing

No meaningful concern for most people; irritation is possible but rare.

Also written as: D-Panthenol · DL-Panthenol · Dexpanthenol · Provitamin B5

What it is

Panthenol is the alcohol form of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5), which the skin converts into the active vitamin after application. It is a clear, syrupy humectant that holds water in the skin while also influencing how skin cells behave during repair. It has a long medical history: dexpanthenol creams have been sold for wound and nappy-rash care for over seventy years.

What it does well

  • Hydrates and reduces water loss through the skin

    Two randomised controlled studies of a panthenol-containing emollient found lasting improvements in skin hydration and reduced transepidermal water loss, alongside better lipid organisation in the outer skin layer.

    Strong evidence

  • Soothes irritated, chapped or freshly damaged skin

    Panthenol supports barrier repair and increases the mobility of molecules in the stratum corneum that matter for barrier function. This is why it is a mainstay in after-sun, post-procedure and nappy-rash products, though much of the clinical work uses higher concentrations than a typical face mask.

    Moderate evidence

  • Very well tolerated on sensitive and compromised skin

    Panthenol does not sting, has no pH requirement, and is used on broken skin in medical settings. Contact allergy is documented but uncommon.

    Strong evidence

Worth knowing

  • Rare contact allergy

    Isolated cases of allergic contact dermatitis to panthenol have been reported, usually in people with chronic leg ulcers or eczema who use it heavily over long periods. For ordinary cosmetic use the risk is very small.

    Matters most toPeople with chronic wounds or long-standing eczema who already react to multiple topical products.

Where the EU stands

No specific restriction

Permitted in EU cosmetics with no concentration limit. It is not listed in the banned, restricted or preservative annexes of the Cosmetics Regulation.

Sources (2)

Every link goes to the original: a journal, a PubMed record or an EU document.

  1. [1]
    Topical use of dexpanthenol: a 70th anniversary article

    Journal of Dermatological Treatment · 2017 · doi:10.1080/09546634.2017.1325310

    A review concluding that dexpanthenol improves the mobility of stratum corneum components important for barrier function and influences genes involved in skin repair.

  2. [2]
    A new topical panthenol-containing emollient: Results from two randomized controlled studies assessing its skin moisturization and barrier restoration potential, and the effect on skin microflora

    Journal of Dermatological Treatment · 2017 · doi:10.1080/09546634.2016.1214235

    A panthenol-containing emollient produced lasting improvements in barrier function and hydration without adversely affecting skin bacteria.

Masks that contain Panthenol