Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil

What it is

Grapeseed oil is extracted from the seeds left over after pressing grapes for wine, which makes it a by-product ingredient with a low environmental cost. It is around 70% linoleic acid, one of the highest of any common cosmetic oil, with very little oleic acid. That gives it a notably thin, dry feel and makes it a sensible choice where a linoleic-rich oil is wanted.

What it does well

• Very high linoleic acid content and a light feel

  Its fatty acid profile puts it at the favourable end of the linoleic-to-oleic ratio that barrier researchers associate with better tolerance. Grapeseed has not been tested directly in the head-to-head human barrier studies that cover olive and sunflower oil.

  Limited evidence

Worth knowing

• Oxidises quickly and is usually solvent-extracted

  Polyunsaturated oils go rancid faster, and the yield from grape seeds is low enough that most commercial grapeseed oil is extracted with hexane rather than pressed. Residual solvent in cosmetic grades is tightly controlled, but the oil does need antioxidants to stay fresh.

  Matters most toPeople specifically seeking cold-pressed or solvent-free ingredients.

Where the EU stands