Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Oil
Sandalwood oil
Genuinely relevant for some people, or depends on dose and pH.
Also written as: Sandalwood Oil · East Indian Sandalwood Oil · Santalum Album Oil
What it is
Sandalwood oil is distilled from the heartwood of Santalum album and is typically 70 to 90% alpha- and beta-santalol. It is one of the oldest and most expensive perfumery materials, which means adulteration with cheaper woods is common. Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 added both the oil and the isolated santalol to the declared-allergen list.
What it does well
Distinctive creamy woody scent with excellent longevity
Santalols are low-volatility and hold a fragrance together. Anti-inflammatory effects of sandalwood have been explored in early research but are not established at cosmetic concentrations.
Strong evidence
Worth knowing
A recognised, if infrequent, contact allergen
Sandalwood oil has been reported as a cause of allergic contact dermatitis and was among the additional substances the SCCS identified for individual labelling, which is why it now appears on EU packs.
Matters most toPeople with a known fragrance or essential-oil allergy.
Frequently adulterated
Because genuine Santalum album oil is scarce and costly, material sold under that name is often blended with Australian sandalwood or synthetic santalol substitutes. This affects what you are actually exposed to.
Matters most toPeople trying to avoid a specific known allergen.
Where the EU stands
Labelling required
Added to the declared fragrance-allergen list by Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 as Annex III entry 367; the isolated constituent Santalol was added as entry 341. Must be named on the pack above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, Annex III entry 367, as inserted by Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 · source ↗

