Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract

What it is

An extract of the leaves of the tea plant, rich in polyphenols called catechins - the most studied being epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG). It is one of the better-researched cosmetic antioxidants, with human data on how skin responds to UV exposure. Formulators add it to masks and serums for its antioxidant and soothing properties.

What it does well

• Reduces UV-induced immune damage in skin

  In human volunteers, topical green and white tea extracts protected skin against UV-driven immune suppression after solar-simulated exposure. Importantly this was not a sunscreen effect - both preparations measured an SPF of 1.

  Moderate evidence

• Improves skin elasticity and dullness

  A split-face, double-blind, randomised placebo-controlled study in 29 women found green tea extract in chitosan microparticles improved elasticity by week 4 and reduced dullness by week 6, with no irritation.

  Moderate evidence

• Calms visible redness in oily and blemish-prone skin

  Catechins have well-documented anti-inflammatory activity in the lab, and green tea is a common inclusion in products for oily skin, but head-to-head cosmetic trials are small.

  Limited evidence

Worth knowing

• Popular anti-ageing claims outrun the evidence

  A double-blind, placebo-controlled trial in photoaged skin found no significant difference in clinical grading versus placebo - only a microscopic improvement in elastic tissue. Treat visible wrinkle claims for green tea with scepticism.

  Matters most toAnyone buying a product primarily for green tea's advertised anti-wrinkle effect.

• It is not a substitute for sunscreen

  Topical tea extracts measured an SPF of about 1 in human testing. Any photoprotective benefit is biological, not a UV filter, and works alongside sunscreen rather than replacing it.

  Matters most toPeople relying on antioxidant products for sun protection.

Where the EU stands

Sources (3)

Every link goes to the original: a journal, a PubMed record or an EU document.

1. [1]
   Topical application of green and white tea extracts provides protection from solar-simulated ultraviolet light in human skin

   Experimental Dermatology · 2009 · doi:10.1111/j.1600-0625.2008.00818.x

   Topical green and white tea protected human skin against UV-induced immune damage, but provided essentially no direct UV filtering (SPF 1), so they complement rather than replace sunscreen.

2. [2]
   Double-blinded, placebo-controlled trial of green tea extracts in the clinical and histologic appearance of photoaging skin

   Dermatologic Surgery · 2005 · doi:10.1111/j.1524-4725.2005.31731

   No significant difference in clinical appearance versus placebo; only microscopic elastic-tissue improvement reached significance, so visible anti-ageing claims are not supported by this trial.

3. [3]
   Effect of green tea extract loaded chitosan microparticles on facial skin: A split-face, double-blind, randomized placebo-controlled study

   Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology · 2022 · doi:10.1111/jocd.14707

   In 29 women, an encapsulated green tea preparation significantly improved skin elasticity and dullness versus placebo without causing irritation.