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be sonatural, Face masks, read from the back

Mostly working for the formula

The antioxidants, entry by entry

On a large majority of the catalogue, almost always late on the label, and almost entirely graded at the site's calmest level. No annex of the Regulation reaches any of it. Read as a group, the entries show a class often present for the formula's sake rather than the reader's, which is not the story the front of a pack tends to tell.

Entries in this class
17of 329
Masks printing one
16073% of 219
Reached by the Regulation
00 capped
Typical place on a label
61%of the way down

Antioxidants interrupt oxidation inside the pack, keeping oils and other oxidisable material from turning rancid or changing colour before the product is used up.

That is the job this class does in a formula, which is not the same as what it does to skin. The second question is answered entry by entry, against a source we read - the grading rubric sets out how.

The short read

  • Tocopherol, hydroxyacetophenone, green tea, the vitamin C derivatives and bakuchiol all sit here, and they sit late on a label. Very little of an antioxidant is needed to keep the oils in a formula from going off, and the position is consistent with that rather than with a headline dose.

  • Where a grade here rises above the calmest level, it tends to be conditional rather than flat - on the acidity a formula needs, or on its being made up so as not to sensitise. The encyclopaedia records the condition rather than a verdict on the substance, and the entry is where it is set out.

  • The weight of cited evidence behind these entries varies far more than their grades do - the sources column below is the one that moves. Entries can share the site's calmest grade and rest on very different reading, which is the argument for opening the entry rather than trusting the class.

All 17 antioxidant entries

Widest reach first. The grade and the EU status are separate columns because they are separate questions: a capped Annex V preservative can be the calmest thing on a label, and an unrestricted plant extract can be the entry most worth reading. Every one of these entries has its own page, with the sources behind it.

Well tolerated
No meaningful concern for most people; irritation is possible but rare.
Depends on you
Genuinely relevant for some people, or depends on dose and pH.
What the levels mean ↗
Every antioxidant entry in the encyclopaedia, with its safety grade, its status under Regulation (EC) 1223/2009, the number of masks that print it, its cited sources and where it typically sits on an ingredient list
EntryEU statusMasksSourcesPlace on a label
Well tolerated: TocopherolVitamin ENo specific restriction87368% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: HydroxyacetophenoneNo specific restriction67660% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf ExtractGreen teaNo specific restriction26345% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Tocopheryl AcetateVitamin E acetateNo specific restriction21148% down
Depends on you: Ascorbic AcidVitamin CNo specific restriction10381% downusually below ≈1%
Depends on you: Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf ExtractRosemary leaf extractNo specific restriction10263% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Ascorbyl PalmitateNo specific restriction9269% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: UbiquinoneCoenzyme Q10No specific restriction6444% down
Well tolerated: GlutathioneNo specific restriction5255% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Sodium Ascorbyl PhosphateStable vitamin CNo specific restriction5245% down
Well tolerated: BakuchiolBakuchiolNo specific restriction3241% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Tannic AcidTanninNo specific restriction3094% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit ExtractBilberryNo specific restriction3041% down
Well tolerated: Ferulic AcidNo specific restriction1268% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran ExtractRice branNo specific restriction1077% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Palmitoyl Grape Seed ExtractNo specific restriction1044% down
Well tolerated: ResveratrolNo specific restrictionnone1—

1 of these entries are in no mask in this catalogue. They are documented for reference - EU-restricted substances kept so a reader knows what should not be on a label, and ingredients that turn up in skincare but not in these masks. The EU watchlist collects the restricted ones.

Where this class sits on a pack

An ingredient list is not in a random order. Article 19(1)(g) of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 requires it to run “in descending order of weight of the ingredients at the time they are added”, and then allows everything under 1% to be listed “in any order” after the rest. So the top of a list is a statement about quantity and the bottom of it is not - which is the ≈1% line the Panel draws on every product page.

Counted across every appearance of this class in the catalogue, and measured as a fraction of each list’s own length so a 4-entry pack and an 81-entry pack count equally, the antioxidant entries sit a median 61% of the way down a list, and 81% of those appearances fall below the ≈1% line. Where that share is high, position has stopped telling a reader anything about how much is in the pack.

Every class in the encyclopaedia, side by side

The encyclopaedia sorts its entries into 24 classes and 10 have a page: a class needs 15 entries to carry one, below which a landing page is a re-headed filter view. “Other” is excluded whatever its size, because a bucket cannot be a landing page. Every figure here is counted across all 24, so any comparison in the copy above is scoped against a set you can see rather than against the ones that happened to ship.

Entries, masks reached, safety grades, entries reached by Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 and typical place on a label, by ingredient class
ClassEntriesMasksGradesEU-reachedPlace on a label
Humectant4221598%41graded well tolerated1graded depends on you033%
Emollient4112959%40graded well tolerated1graded depends on you136%
Preservative2817881%14graded well tolerated2graded depends on you8graded worth knowing4graded avoid234 banned78%
Botanical2512457%17graded well tolerated7graded depends on you1graded worth knowing050%
Emulsifier2215671%22graded well tolerated051%
Thickener2219790%22graded well tolerated155%
Essential oil212913%18graded depends on you3graded worth knowing879%
Fragrance1913260%11graded depends on you6graded worth knowing2graded avoid192 banned88%
Antioxidant1716073%15graded well tolerated2graded depends on you061%
Active1612155%9graded well tolerated1graded depends on you5graded worth knowing1graded avoid71 banned46%
Exfoliantno page93616%3graded well tolerated6graded depends on you353%
pH adjusterno page914868%9graded well tolerated372%
Othernever a page97333%8graded well tolerated1graded avoid21 banned72%
Clay / mineralno page84621%7graded well tolerated1graded worth knowing717%
Fermentno page72612%7graded well tolerated038%
Film formerno page75927%7graded well tolerated064%
Solventno page621498%3graded well tolerated3graded depends on you06%
Colourantno page53817%4graded well tolerated1graded depends on you396%
Peptide / proteinno page53014%5graded well tolerated067%
Chelatorno page49845%4graded well tolerated077%
Siliconeno page4157%3graded well tolerated1graded worth knowing125%
Surfactantno page252%2graded depends on you026%
UV filterno page142%1graded well tolerated135%
Occlusiveno page000%—0—

An entry has exactly one class, so the entries column sums to 329. The masks column does not sum to 219 and is not meant to - a single list prints entries from a great many classes at once.


Read another class

The other classes with a page

Every entry in this class has a page of its own in the ingredient encyclopaedia, where you can search any name off the back of a pack. To see the masks that print these names, and narrow them by price, format or what you want kept out, filter the full catalogue.

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