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Hydroxyacetophenone

Well toleratedAntioxidantantioxidantpreservative booster

No meaningful concern for most people; irritation is possible but rare.

Also written as: 4-Hydroxyacetophenone · Piceol

What it is

Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic ketone found naturally in spruce and some fruits. In cosmetics it is used as an antioxidant that protects the formula from oxidative breakdown, and it enhances the performance of preservatives such as phenoxyethanol. Some suppliers also promote it as a soothing ingredient. It is not an EU-listed preservative.

What it does well

  • Stabilises the formula and supports the preservative system

    Its antioxidant action protects sensitive ingredients from oxidation while allowing lower preservative levels. Most of the supporting data comes from supplier studies rather than independent trials.

    Limited evidence

Worth knowing

  • A documented contact allergen, in a slowly growing number of cases

    Hydroxyacetophenone is not widely recognised as a contact allergen, and no prevalence figure from a large patch-test series has been published. What has accumulated instead is a run of individual reports of allergic contact dermatitis traced to it, in a face cream in 2018, an anti-wrinkle serum in 2023, a sunscreen in 2025 where the reaction was aggravated by light, an eyelid moisturiser sold for sensitive skin in 2026, and two further patients in 2026 who tested strongly positive to it at 0.6% in water. That is a small number against very wide use, but it is no longer none.

    Matters most toPeople with persistent facial or eyelid eczema who have never had this ingredient patch tested.

Where the EU stands

No specific restriction

Not listed in Annex V and not otherwise restricted in EU cosmetics.

Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 - no annex entry · source ↗

Sources (6)

Every link goes to the original: a journal, a PubMed record or an EU document.

  1. [1]
    Allergic contact dermatitis associated with hydroxyacetophenone: two case reports

    Contact Dermatitis · 2026 · doi:10.1111/cod.70123

    Two patients, one reacting to a psoriasis emollient and one to two anti-wrinkle creams, both tested strongly positive to hydroxyacetophenone at 0.6% in water. The authors note the compound is not widely recognised as a contact allergen, while counting the handful of cases documented before theirs.

  2. [2]
    Allergic contact dermatitis caused by hydroxyacetophenone in an eyelid moisturiser for sensitive skin

    Contact Dermatitis · 2026 · doi:10.1111/cod.70122

    A case of allergic contact dermatitis to hydroxyacetophenone in an eyelid moisturiser marketed for sensitive skin.

  3. [3]
    Photo-aggravated allergic contact dermatitis due to hydroxyacetophenone present in a sunscreen: a case report

    Contact Dermatitis · 2025 · doi:10.1111/cod.14823

    A case in which allergic contact dermatitis to hydroxyacetophenone in a sunscreen was aggravated by light exposure.

  4. [4]
    Allergic contact dermatitis from hydroxyacetophenone in an anti-wrinkle facial serum with flare-up reactions triggered by the repeated open application test

    Contact Dermatitis · 2023 · doi:10.1111/cod.14284

    Allergic contact dermatitis to hydroxyacetophenone in an anti-wrinkle serum, with the diagnosis confirmed by flare-up on repeated open application testing.

  5. [5]
    Allergic contact dermatitis caused by hydroxyacetophenone in a face cream

    Contact Dermatitis · 2018 · doi:10.1111/cod.12900

    The first published cosmetic case of allergic contact dermatitis attributed to hydroxyacetophenone.

  6. [6]
    Deciphering trends in replacing preservatives in cosmetics intended for infants and sensitive population

    Scientific Reports · 2024 · doi:10.1038/s41598-024-69624-9

    Identifies hydroxyacetophenone as one of eleven multifunctional ingredients with antimicrobial activity now replacing conventional preservatives, and closes by arguing that attention needs to shift to the safety of those replacements.


Masks that contain Hydroxyacetophenone