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Linalool

Worth knowingFragrancefragrancemaskingEU-declared fragrance allergen

EU-restricted, a common contact allergen, or subject to live debate.

Also written as: Linalol · dl-Linalool · Coriandrol

What it is

Linalool is a naturally occurring terpene alcohol that gives lavender, coriander, rosewood, ho leaf and bergamot much of their soft floral character. It is also made synthetically on a large scale and is one of the most-used fragrance ingredients in the world. In face masks it is nearly always declared because an essential oil in the formula contains it rather than because it was added on its own.

What it does well

  • Delivers a soft floral scent at very low levels

    It is odour-active at tiny concentrations, which lets formulators scent a product with a very small addition. This is a sensory benefit, not a skin benefit.

    Strong evidence

  • Has mild antimicrobial activity in laboratory tests

    Linalool inhibits some bacteria and fungi in vitro, but the concentrations needed are far above cosmetic fragrance levels. It should not be treated as a preservative or an acne treatment.

    Limited evidence

Worth knowing

  • Oxidised linalool is one of the most frequent fragrance allergens in Europe

    Pure linalool barely sensitises. Air exposure converts it into hydroperoxides that are strong allergens. In 5773 consecutive Swedish dermatitis patients, 7.0% reacted to oxidised linalool, one of the highest rates for any single fragrance material.

    Matters most toPeople with eczema, facial dermatitis or a known fragrance allergy.

  • Lavender-derived linalool oxidises unusually fast

    Lavender oil lacks the natural antioxidants that protect some other essential oils, so its linalool and linalyl acetate form hydroperoxides readily on air exposure. That makes lavender-scented products a common route of exposure.

    Matters most toAnyone who uses lavender-scented products daily or keeps them open for a long time.

  • Very hard to avoid completely

    Linalool appears in a large share of scented cosmetics, household products and even some "natural" and "unscented" ranges via essential oils. People with a confirmed allergy usually need a genuinely fragrance-free routine rather than label-by-label avoidance.

    Matters most toPeople with a diagnosed linalool hydroperoxide allergy.

Where the EU stands

Labelling required

One of the original 26 declared fragrance allergens. Must be named on the pack above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products. No maximum concentration is set.

Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, Annex III entry 84 · source ↗

Sources (3)

Every link goes to the original: a journal, a PubMed record or an EU document.

  1. [1]
    Contact allergy to oxidized linalool and oxidized limonene: Patch testing in consecutive patients with dermatitis

    Contact Dermatitis · 2022 · doi:10.1111/cod.13980

    7.0% of 5773 consecutive dermatitis patients reacted to oxidised linalool, versus 5.1% for oxidised limonene.

  2. [2]
    Lavender oil lacks natural protection against autoxidation, forming strong contact allergens on air exposure

    Contact Dermatitis · 2008 · doi:10.1111/j.1600-0536.2008.01402.x

    Lavender oil autoxidises readily because it lacks protective antioxidants, and the resulting linalool and linalyl acetate hydroperoxides are strong sensitisers in the local lymph node assay.

  3. [3]
    Contact Allergy to Hydroperoxides of Linalool and D-Limonene in a US Population

    Dermatitis · 2017 · doi:10.1097/DER.0000000000000318

    Linalool hydroperoxides produced a clinically meaningful rate of positive patch tests in a US population, supporting their inclusion in screening series.

Masks that contain Linalool