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Niacinamide

Vitamin B3

Well toleratedActivebrighteningbarrier supportsebum control

No meaningful concern for most people; irritation is possible but rare.

Also written as: Nicotinamide · Vitamin B3 · Vitamin PP

What it is

Niacinamide is the amide form of vitamin B3, a small water-soluble molecule made synthetically for cosmetic use. In skin it feeds into the NAD+/NADP+ coenzyme pool that cells use for energy and repair. Formulators like it because it is stable across a wide pH range, cheap, water-soluble and unusually well tolerated, which lets it be combined with almost any other active.

What it does well

  • Reduces the look of uneven tone and dark patches

    Controlled trials at 2-5% show measurable reductions in hyperpigmented spots and blotchiness over 8-12 weeks. It works by blocking the transfer of pigment granules from pigment-producing cells to surface skin cells, rather than by bleaching existing pigment.

    Strong evidence

  • Strengthens the skin barrier and reduces water loss

    Niacinamide increases the skin's own production of ceramides and other barrier lipids, which measurably lowers transepidermal water loss. This is why it is often paired with exfoliating acids in the same routine.

    Strong evidence

  • Moderates oil production on oily skin

    A controlled trial found 2% niacinamide lowered measured sebum output on facial skin. The effect is modest and gradual rather than a dramatic mattifying result.

    Moderate evidence

Worth knowing

  • Occasional flushing or tingling at high concentrations

    A minority of people get transient warmth or pinkness, more likely above 5% or where a product also contains residual nicotinic acid from manufacturing. It settles quickly and is not an allergic reaction.

    Matters most toPeople with sensitive or reactive skin trying a high-strength niacinamide product for the first time.

  • The 'niacinamide cancels out vitamin C' claim is not supported

    The idea comes from 1960s experiments heating the two together in solution at concentrations and temperatures unlike any cosmetic. In finished products at skin temperature they are routinely combined without loss of effect.

    Matters most toNobody needs to avoid layering these; the popular warning is unfounded.

Where the EU stands

No specific restriction

Not listed in any restriction or prohibition annex of the EU Cosmetics Regulation; permitted at the formulator's discretion under the general safety requirement.

Sources (3)

Every link goes to the original: a journal, a PubMed record or an EU document.

  1. [1]
    Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance

    Dermatologic Surgery · 2005

    In a 12-week double-blind split-face trial, 5% niacinamide significantly reduced hyperpigmented spots, fine lines and skin blotchiness versus vehicle.

  2. [2]
    Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier

    British Journal of Dermatology · 2000 · doi:10.1111/j.1365-2133.2000.03705.x

    Topical nicotinamide raised ceramide and free fatty acid synthesis in the outer skin layer and lowered transepidermal water loss, supporting a genuine barrier-repair mechanism.

  3. [3]
    The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production

    Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy · 2006 · doi:10.1080/14764170600717704

    Twice-daily 2% niacinamide measurably reduced sebum excretion rate on facial skin over four to six weeks.

Masks that contain Niacinamide