Where a list means permission
The preservatives, entry by entry
The class readers arrive most worried about, and the one where the paperwork is most reassuring. Annex V of the Regulation is a positive list: a substance mainly intended to keep a product free of micro-organisms may not be used unless it is named there, on the conditions its entry sets. So most of this class is reached by the law and most of it carries a numerical cap - and here that is what lawful looks like rather than what trouble looks like.
- Entries in this class
- 28of 329
- Masks printing one
- 17881% of 219
- Reached by the Regulation
- 2319 capped
- Typical place on a label
- 78%of the way down
Preservatives hold back bacteria, yeast and mould in the water phase of a formula, through the life of the pack and after it has been opened.
That is the job this class does in a formula, which is not the same as what it does to skin. The second question is answered entry by entry, against a source we read - the grading rubric sets out how.
The short read
The Regulation keeps a positive list for the colourants and another for the UV filters, and of the classes with a page here this is the only one governed by one of them. Everywhere else on the site an annex reference marks a restriction; in this class it marks permission, and the cap is the condition of the entry rather than a caution about it.
A handful of entries here are named in no annex at all, which is not an oversight. A preservative is defined by intent - Article 2(1)(l) reads “exclusively or mainly intended to inhibit the development of micro-organisms in the cosmetic product” - so a substance with an antimicrobial effect can be in a formula lawfully while declared for another purpose, with the preserving left to something on the list.
The grades run the full width of the site's scale, and a substantial share of these entries are in no mask in the catalogue at all. They are documented for reference - the banned ones among them - because knowing what should not be on a label is half of reading one. Almost every preservative that is on a label sits late on it, below the point where descending order stops carrying information.
All 28 preservative entries
Widest reach first. The grade and the EU status are separate columns because they are separate questions: a capped Annex V preservative can be the calmest thing on a label, and an unrestricted plant extract can be the entry most worth reading. Every one of these entries has its own page, with the sources behind it.
- Well tolerated
- No meaningful concern for most people; irritation is possible but rare.
- Depends on you
- Genuinely relevant for some people, or depends on dose and pH.
- Worth knowing
- EU-restricted, a common contact allergen, or subject to live debate.
- Avoid
- Banned in EU cosmetics or credibly linked to serious harm.
| Entry | EU status | Masks | Sources | Place on a label |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Well tolerated: Ethylhexylglycerin | No specific restriction | 103 | 1 | 72% downusually below ≈1% |
| Well tolerated: Phenoxyethanol | Approved preservative (Annex V) | 71 | 3 | 82% downusually below ≈1% |
| Well tolerated: Sodium Benzoate | Approved preservative (Annex V) | 22 | 2 | 87% downusually below ≈1% |
| Well tolerated: Potassium Sorbate | Approved preservative (Annex V) | 20 | 0 | 91% downusually below ≈1% |
| Well tolerated: Benzyl Alcohol | Approved preservative (Annex V)allergen | 19 | 2 | 83% downusually below ≈1% |
| Well tolerated: Levulinic Acid | No specific restriction | 14 | 2 | 67% downusually below ≈1% |
| Well tolerated: Sodium Levulinate | No specific restriction | 14 | 2 | 63% downusually below ≈1% |
| Depends on you: Chlorphenesin | Approved preservative (Annex V) | 13 | 3 | 50% downusually below ≈1% |
| Well tolerated: Dehydroacetic Acid | Approved preservative (Annex V) | 8 | 1 | 62% downusually below ≈1% |
| Well tolerated: Sodium Anisate | No specific restriction | 8 | 2 | 55% downusually below ≈1% |
| Well tolerated: MethylparabenParaben | Approved preservative (Annex V) | 6 | 3 | 93% downusually below ≈1% |
| Well tolerated: Sorbic Acid | Approved preservative (Annex V) | 6 | 2 | 79% downusually below ≈1% |
| Well tolerated: Sodium Dehydroacetate | Approved preservative (Annex V) | 5 | 1 | 72% downusually below ≈1% |
| Well tolerated: Benzoic Acid | Approved preservative (Annex V) | 4 | 1 | 81% downusually below ≈1% |
| Well tolerated: Phenethyl Alcohol | No specific restriction | 4 | 0 | 79% downusually below ≈1% |
| Worth knowing: PropylparabenParaben | Approved preservative (Annex V) | 1 | 2 | 76% downusually below ≈1% |
| Depends on you: Sodium Salicylate | Approved preservative (Annex V) | 1 | 0 | 71% down |
| Worth knowing: ButylparabenParaben | Approved preservative (Annex V) | none | 2 | — |
| Worth knowing: Diazolidinyl Urea | Concentration-restricted | none | 1 | — |
| Worth knowing: DMDM Hydantoin | Concentration-restricted | none | 2 | — |
| Avoid: Formaldehyde | Banned in EU cosmetics | none | 2 | — |
| Worth knowing: Imidazolidinyl Urea | Concentration-restricted | none | 1 | — |
| Avoid: Isobutylparaben | Banned in EU cosmetics | none | 2 | — |
| Avoid: Isopropylparaben | Banned in EU cosmetics | none | 1 | — |
| Worth knowing: MethylchloroisothiazolinoneMCI | Concentration-restricted | none | 2 | — |
| Worth knowing: MethylisothiazolinoneMI | Concentration-restricted | none | 3 | — |
| Avoid: Quaternium-15 | Banned in EU cosmetics | none | 2 | — |
| Worth knowing: Triclosan | Concentration-restricted | none | 2 | — |
11 of these entries are in no mask in this catalogue. They are documented for reference - EU-restricted substances kept so a reader knows what should not be on a label, and ingredients that turn up in skincare but not in these masks. The EU watchlist collects the restricted ones.
Where this class sits on a pack
An ingredient list is not in a random order. Article 19(1)(g) of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 requires it to run “in descending order of weight of the ingredients at the time they are added”, and then allows everything under 1% to be listed “in any order” after the rest. So the top of a list is a statement about quantity and the bottom of it is not - which is the ≈1% line the Panel draws on every product page.
Counted across every appearance of this class in the catalogue, and measured as a fraction of each list’s own length so a 4-entry pack and an 81-entry pack count equally, the preservative entries sit a median 78% of the way down a list, and 87% of those appearances fall below the ≈1% line. Where that share is high, position has stopped telling a reader anything about how much is in the pack.
Every class in the encyclopaedia, side by side
The encyclopaedia sorts its entries into 24 classes and 10 have a page: a class needs 15 entries to carry one, below which a landing page is a re-headed filter view. “Other” is excluded whatever its size, because a bucket cannot be a landing page. Every figure here is counted across all 24, so any comparison in the copy above is scoped against a set you can see rather than against the ones that happened to ship.
| Class | Entries | Masks | Grades | EU-reached | Place on a label |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Humectant | 42 | 21598% | 41graded well tolerated1graded depends on you | 0 | 33% |
| Emollient | 41 | 12959% | 40graded well tolerated1graded depends on you | 1 | 36% |
| Preservative | 28 | 17881% | 14graded well tolerated2graded depends on you8graded worth knowing4graded avoid | 234 banned | 78% |
| Botanical | 25 | 12457% | 17graded well tolerated7graded depends on you1graded worth knowing | 0 | 50% |
| Emulsifier | 22 | 15671% | 22graded well tolerated | 0 | 51% |
| Thickener | 22 | 19790% | 22graded well tolerated | 1 | 55% |
| Essential oil | 21 | 2913% | 18graded depends on you3graded worth knowing | 8 | 79% |
| Fragrance | 19 | 13260% | 11graded depends on you6graded worth knowing2graded avoid | 192 banned | 88% |
| Antioxidant | 17 | 16073% | 15graded well tolerated2graded depends on you | 0 | 61% |
| Active | 16 | 12155% | 9graded well tolerated1graded depends on you5graded worth knowing1graded avoid | 71 banned | 46% |
| Exfoliantno page | 9 | 3616% | 3graded well tolerated6graded depends on you | 3 | 53% |
| pH adjusterno page | 9 | 14868% | 9graded well tolerated | 3 | 72% |
| Othernever a page | 9 | 7333% | 8graded well tolerated1graded avoid | 21 banned | 72% |
| Clay / mineralno page | 8 | 4621% | 7graded well tolerated1graded worth knowing | 7 | 17% |
| Fermentno page | 7 | 2612% | 7graded well tolerated | 0 | 38% |
| Film formerno page | 7 | 5927% | 7graded well tolerated | 0 | 64% |
| Solventno page | 6 | 21498% | 3graded well tolerated3graded depends on you | 0 | 6% |
| Colourantno page | 5 | 3817% | 4graded well tolerated1graded depends on you | 3 | 96% |
| Peptide / proteinno page | 5 | 3014% | 5graded well tolerated | 0 | 67% |
| Chelatorno page | 4 | 9845% | 4graded well tolerated | 0 | 77% |
| Siliconeno page | 4 | 157% | 3graded well tolerated1graded worth knowing | 1 | 25% |
| Surfactantno page | 2 | 52% | 2graded depends on you | 0 | 26% |
| UV filterno page | 1 | 42% | 1graded well tolerated | 1 | 35% |
| Occlusiveno page | 0 | 00% | — | 0 | — |
An entry has exactly one class, so the entries column sums to 329. The masks column does not sum to 219 and is not meant to - a single list prints entries from a great many classes at once.
Read another class
The other classes with a page
The class a mask mostly is
The humectants, entry by entry
42 entries · on 215 masks
Where the label names a plant
The emollients, entry by entry
41 entries · on 129 masks
Unrestricted, and not always calm
The botanicals, entry by entry
25 entries · on 124 masks
The invisible class
The emulsifiers, entry by entry
22 entries · on 156 masks
Texture, and nobody reads it
The thickeners, entry by entry
22 entries · on 197 masks
Small class, long list of cautions
The essential oils, entry by entry
21 entries · on 29 masks
The class the law knows entirely
The fragrance materials, entry by entry
19 entries · on 132 masks
Where a cap signals purpose
The actives, entry by entry
16 entries · on 121 masks
Mostly working for the formula
The antioxidants, entry by entry
17 entries · on 160 masks
Every entry in this class has a page of its own in the ingredient encyclopaedia, where you can search any name off the back of a pack. To see the masks that print these names, and narrow them by price, format or what you want kept out, filter the full catalogue.
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