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be sonatural, Face masks, read from the back

Where a list means permission

The preservatives, entry by entry

The class readers arrive most worried about, and the one where the paperwork is most reassuring. Annex V of the Regulation is a positive list: a substance mainly intended to keep a product free of micro-organisms may not be used unless it is named there, on the conditions its entry sets. So most of this class is reached by the law and most of it carries a numerical cap - and here that is what lawful looks like rather than what trouble looks like.

Entries in this class
28of 329
Masks printing one
17881% of 219
Reached by the Regulation
2319 capped
Typical place on a label
78%of the way down

Preservatives hold back bacteria, yeast and mould in the water phase of a formula, through the life of the pack and after it has been opened.

That is the job this class does in a formula, which is not the same as what it does to skin. The second question is answered entry by entry, against a source we read - the grading rubric sets out how.

The short read

  • The Regulation keeps a positive list for the colourants and another for the UV filters, and of the classes with a page here this is the only one governed by one of them. Everywhere else on the site an annex reference marks a restriction; in this class it marks permission, and the cap is the condition of the entry rather than a caution about it.

  • A handful of entries here are named in no annex at all, which is not an oversight. A preservative is defined by intent - Article 2(1)(l) reads “exclusively or mainly intended to inhibit the development of micro-organisms in the cosmetic product” - so a substance with an antimicrobial effect can be in a formula lawfully while declared for another purpose, with the preserving left to something on the list.

  • The grades run the full width of the site's scale, and a substantial share of these entries are in no mask in the catalogue at all. They are documented for reference - the banned ones among them - because knowing what should not be on a label is half of reading one. Almost every preservative that is on a label sits late on it, below the point where descending order stops carrying information.

All 28 preservative entries

Widest reach first. The grade and the EU status are separate columns because they are separate questions: a capped Annex V preservative can be the calmest thing on a label, and an unrestricted plant extract can be the entry most worth reading. Every one of these entries has its own page, with the sources behind it.

Well tolerated
No meaningful concern for most people; irritation is possible but rare.
Depends on you
Genuinely relevant for some people, or depends on dose and pH.
Worth knowing
EU-restricted, a common contact allergen, or subject to live debate.
Avoid
Banned in EU cosmetics or credibly linked to serious harm.
What the levels mean ↗
Every preservative entry in the encyclopaedia, with its safety grade, its status under Regulation (EC) 1223/2009, the number of masks that print it, its cited sources and where it typically sits on an ingredient list
EntryEU statusMasksSourcesPlace on a label
Well tolerated: EthylhexylglycerinNo specific restriction103172% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: PhenoxyethanolApproved preservative (Annex V)71382% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Sodium BenzoateApproved preservative (Annex V)22287% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Potassium SorbateApproved preservative (Annex V)20091% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Benzyl AlcoholApproved preservative (Annex V)allergen19283% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Levulinic AcidNo specific restriction14267% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Sodium LevulinateNo specific restriction14263% downusually below ≈1%
Depends on you: ChlorphenesinApproved preservative (Annex V)13350% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Dehydroacetic AcidApproved preservative (Annex V)8162% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Sodium AnisateNo specific restriction8255% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: MethylparabenParabenApproved preservative (Annex V)6393% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Sorbic AcidApproved preservative (Annex V)6279% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Sodium DehydroacetateApproved preservative (Annex V)5172% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Benzoic AcidApproved preservative (Annex V)4181% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Phenethyl AlcoholNo specific restriction4079% downusually below ≈1%
Worth knowing: PropylparabenParabenApproved preservative (Annex V)1276% downusually below ≈1%
Depends on you: Sodium SalicylateApproved preservative (Annex V)1071% down
Worth knowing: ButylparabenParabenApproved preservative (Annex V)none2—
Worth knowing: Diazolidinyl UreaConcentration-restrictednone1—
Worth knowing: DMDM HydantoinConcentration-restrictednone2—
Avoid: FormaldehydeBanned in EU cosmeticsnone2—
Worth knowing: Imidazolidinyl UreaConcentration-restrictednone1—
Avoid: IsobutylparabenBanned in EU cosmeticsnone2—
Avoid: IsopropylparabenBanned in EU cosmeticsnone1—
Worth knowing: MethylchloroisothiazolinoneMCIConcentration-restrictednone2—
Worth knowing: MethylisothiazolinoneMIConcentration-restrictednone3—
Avoid: Quaternium-15Banned in EU cosmeticsnone2—
Worth knowing: TriclosanConcentration-restrictednone2—

11 of these entries are in no mask in this catalogue. They are documented for reference - EU-restricted substances kept so a reader knows what should not be on a label, and ingredients that turn up in skincare but not in these masks. The EU watchlist collects the restricted ones.

Where this class sits on a pack

An ingredient list is not in a random order. Article 19(1)(g) of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 requires it to run “in descending order of weight of the ingredients at the time they are added”, and then allows everything under 1% to be listed “in any order” after the rest. So the top of a list is a statement about quantity and the bottom of it is not - which is the ≈1% line the Panel draws on every product page.

Counted across every appearance of this class in the catalogue, and measured as a fraction of each list’s own length so a 4-entry pack and an 81-entry pack count equally, the preservative entries sit a median 78% of the way down a list, and 87% of those appearances fall below the ≈1% line. Where that share is high, position has stopped telling a reader anything about how much is in the pack.

Every class in the encyclopaedia, side by side

The encyclopaedia sorts its entries into 24 classes and 10 have a page: a class needs 15 entries to carry one, below which a landing page is a re-headed filter view. “Other” is excluded whatever its size, because a bucket cannot be a landing page. Every figure here is counted across all 24, so any comparison in the copy above is scoped against a set you can see rather than against the ones that happened to ship.

Entries, masks reached, safety grades, entries reached by Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 and typical place on a label, by ingredient class
ClassEntriesMasksGradesEU-reachedPlace on a label
Humectant4221598%41graded well tolerated1graded depends on you033%
Emollient4112959%40graded well tolerated1graded depends on you136%
Preservative2817881%14graded well tolerated2graded depends on you8graded worth knowing4graded avoid234 banned78%
Botanical2512457%17graded well tolerated7graded depends on you1graded worth knowing050%
Emulsifier2215671%22graded well tolerated051%
Thickener2219790%22graded well tolerated155%
Essential oil212913%18graded depends on you3graded worth knowing879%
Fragrance1913260%11graded depends on you6graded worth knowing2graded avoid192 banned88%
Antioxidant1716073%15graded well tolerated2graded depends on you061%
Active1612155%9graded well tolerated1graded depends on you5graded worth knowing1graded avoid71 banned46%
Exfoliantno page93616%3graded well tolerated6graded depends on you353%
pH adjusterno page914868%9graded well tolerated372%
Othernever a page97333%8graded well tolerated1graded avoid21 banned72%
Clay / mineralno page84621%7graded well tolerated1graded worth knowing717%
Fermentno page72612%7graded well tolerated038%
Film formerno page75927%7graded well tolerated064%
Solventno page621498%3graded well tolerated3graded depends on you06%
Colourantno page53817%4graded well tolerated1graded depends on you396%
Peptide / proteinno page53014%5graded well tolerated067%
Chelatorno page49845%4graded well tolerated077%
Siliconeno page4157%3graded well tolerated1graded worth knowing125%
Surfactantno page252%2graded depends on you026%
UV filterno page142%1graded well tolerated135%
Occlusiveno page000%—0—

An entry has exactly one class, so the entries column sums to 329. The masks column does not sum to 219 and is not meant to - a single list prints entries from a great many classes at once.


Read another class

The other classes with a page

Every entry in this class has a page of its own in the ingredient encyclopaedia, where you can search any name off the back of a pack. To see the masks that print these names, and narrow them by price, format or what you want kept out, filter the full catalogue.

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