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be sonatural, Face masks, read from the back

Texture, and nobody reads it

The thickeners, entry by entry

Texture is the first thing anyone notices about a mask, and this is the class that decides it. It is also the class nobody reads. Its reach across the catalogue is very wide, its grades are uniform, and almost all of it is printed late on a label: a great deal of work done at a very small weight.

Entries in this class
22of 329
Masks printing one
19790% of 219
Reached by the Regulation
11 capped
Typical place on a label
55%of the way down

Thickeners raise a formula's viscosity and hold it together, giving a gel its body and keeping suspended material from settling to the bottom of the jar.

That is the job this class does in a formula, which is not the same as what it does to skin. The second question is answered entry by entry, against a source we read - the grading rubric sets out how.

The short read

  • Every entry is graded at the site's calmest level and the Regulation barely reaches the class at all. Gums, celluloses, carbomers and seaweed polysaccharides, on the large majority of the catalogue.

  • These names sit late on a list, mostly below the point where descending order stops carrying information, which means they are present in small amounts. Texture is therefore not a question of how much a mask contains, but of which of these it chose.

  • The class rewards attention for a reason that has nothing to do with safety. Whatever a reader makes of how a mask feels, this is the group responsible for it, and its position on the label says the decision was made with very little material.

All 22 thickener entries

Widest reach first. The grade and the EU status are separate columns because they are separate questions: a capped Annex V preservative can be the calmest thing on a label, and an unrestricted plant extract can be the entry most worth reading. Every one of these entries has its own page, with the sources behind it.

Well tolerated
No meaningful concern for most people; irritation is possible but rare.
What the levels mean ↗
Every thickener entry in the encyclopaedia, with its safety grade, its status under Regulation (EC) 1223/2009, the number of masks that print it, its cited sources and where it typically sits on an ingredient list
EntryEU statusMasksSourcesPlace on a label
Well tolerated: Xanthan GumXanthanNo specific restriction158263% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: CarbomerCarbomerNo specific restriction41262% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: HydroxyethylcelluloseHECNo specific restriction31073% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Chondrus CrispusIrish mossNo specific restriction20118% down
Well tolerated: Sodium PolyacrylateNo specific restriction18063% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerNo specific restriction17041% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Ceratonia Siliqua (Carob) GumLocust bean gumNo specific restriction17023% down
Well tolerated: Cellulose GumCarboxymethylcelluloseNo specific restriction15253% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid CopolymerNo specific restriction13067% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: DextrinNo specific restriction12167% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Magnesium Aluminum SilicateConcentration-restricted12147% down
Well tolerated: CarrageenanCarrageenanNo specific restriction11244% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Gellan GumNo specific restriction11256% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: GlucomannanNo specific restriction9351% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Sclerotium GumNo specific restriction9263% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: AlginAlginateNo specific restriction8134% down
Well tolerated: Zea Mays (Corn) StarchCorn starchNo specific restriction7047% down
Well tolerated: CelluloseCelluloseNo specific restriction6042% down
Well tolerated: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP CopolymerNo specific restriction5032% down
Well tolerated: Glyceryl PolyacrylateNo specific restriction2072% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: PEG-150 DistearateNo specific restriction1052% downusually below ≈1%
Well tolerated: Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate CopolymerNo specific restriction1038% down

Where this class sits on a pack

An ingredient list is not in a random order. Article 19(1)(g) of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 requires it to run “in descending order of weight of the ingredients at the time they are added”, and then allows everything under 1% to be listed “in any order” after the rest. So the top of a list is a statement about quantity and the bottom of it is not - which is the ≈1% line the Panel draws on every product page.

Counted across every appearance of this class in the catalogue, and measured as a fraction of each list’s own length so a 4-entry pack and an 81-entry pack count equally, the thickener entries sit a median 55% of the way down a list, and 73% of those appearances fall below the ≈1% line. Where that share is high, position has stopped telling a reader anything about how much is in the pack.

Every class in the encyclopaedia, side by side

The encyclopaedia sorts its entries into 24 classes and 10 have a page: a class needs 15 entries to carry one, below which a landing page is a re-headed filter view. “Other” is excluded whatever its size, because a bucket cannot be a landing page. Every figure here is counted across all 24, so any comparison in the copy above is scoped against a set you can see rather than against the ones that happened to ship.

Entries, masks reached, safety grades, entries reached by Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 and typical place on a label, by ingredient class
ClassEntriesMasksGradesEU-reachedPlace on a label
Humectant4221598%41graded well tolerated1graded depends on you033%
Emollient4112959%40graded well tolerated1graded depends on you136%
Preservative2817881%14graded well tolerated2graded depends on you8graded worth knowing4graded avoid234 banned78%
Botanical2512457%17graded well tolerated7graded depends on you1graded worth knowing050%
Emulsifier2215671%22graded well tolerated051%
Thickener2219790%22graded well tolerated155%
Essential oil212913%18graded depends on you3graded worth knowing879%
Fragrance1913260%11graded depends on you6graded worth knowing2graded avoid192 banned88%
Antioxidant1716073%15graded well tolerated2graded depends on you061%
Active1612155%9graded well tolerated1graded depends on you5graded worth knowing1graded avoid71 banned46%
Exfoliantno page93616%3graded well tolerated6graded depends on you353%
pH adjusterno page914868%9graded well tolerated372%
Othernever a page97333%8graded well tolerated1graded avoid21 banned72%
Clay / mineralno page84621%7graded well tolerated1graded worth knowing717%
Fermentno page72612%7graded well tolerated038%
Film formerno page75927%7graded well tolerated064%
Solventno page621498%3graded well tolerated3graded depends on you06%
Colourantno page53817%4graded well tolerated1graded depends on you396%
Peptide / proteinno page53014%5graded well tolerated067%
Chelatorno page49845%4graded well tolerated077%
Siliconeno page4157%3graded well tolerated1graded worth knowing125%
Surfactantno page252%2graded depends on you026%
UV filterno page142%1graded well tolerated135%
Occlusiveno page000%—0—

An entry has exactly one class, so the entries column sums to 329. The masks column does not sum to 219 and is not meant to - a single list prints entries from a great many classes at once.


Read another class

The other classes with a page

Every entry in this class has a page of its own in the ingredient encyclopaedia, where you can search any name off the back of a pack. To see the masks that print these names, and narrow them by price, format or what you want kept out, filter the full catalogue.

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