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Xanthan Gum

Xanthan

Well toleratedThickenerthickenerstabiliserfilm-former

No meaningful concern for most people; irritation is possible but rare.

Also written as: E 415 · Corn Sugar Gum

What it is

Xanthan gum is a long-chain polysaccharide made by feeding sugars to the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris and then purifying the gum it produces. It dissolves in water to give a body and slip that most people read as 'gel', and it is used at roughly 0.1-1%. Its useful trick is shear-thinning: it holds oil droplets and pigments in suspension when the product sits still, but flows easily when you spread it. It is also one of the most common thickeners in food, which is why its toxicology is unusually well characterised.

What it does well

  • Thickens and stabilises without any occlusive or greasy feel

    It reliably suspends oils, clays and actives, prevents separation over shelf life and works across a wide pH range and in the presence of salts. This is well-established rheology rather than a claimed skin effect.

    Strong evidence

  • Leaves a light hydrating film on the skin surface

    As the water evaporates, xanthan leaves a thin flexible layer that can slightly slow water loss and make skin feel smoother. The effect is modest and is not why formulators choose it.

    Limited evidence

Worth knowing

  • Occasionally pills or feels tacky

    At higher concentrations, or layered with other polymers and silicones, xanthan can roll into small balls or leave a slightly sticky finish. This is a cosmetic annoyance, not a safety issue; irritation and allergy are very rare.

Where the EU stands

No specific restriction

Not restricted for cosmetic use in the EU; it appears in no Annex of the Cosmetics Regulation and is also an approved food additive (E 415).

Sources (1)

Every link goes to the original: a journal, a PubMed record or an EU document.

  1. [1]
    Re-evaluation of xanthan gum (E 415) as a food additive

    EFSA Journal (EFSA Panel on Food Additives and Nutrient Sources added to Food) · 2017 · doi:10.2903/j.efsa.2017.4909

    EFSA found xanthan gum is not absorbed intact, showed no genotoxicity or systemic toxicity concerns, and saw no need to set a numerical acceptable daily intake at reported use levels.

Masks that contain Xanthan Gum